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We've been taking advantage of the coronapocalypse to get some work done, and we finally got the hitch extension kit installed. I have the rear step bumper, and with the bumper on the trailer neck hits the bumper, so I'm hoping this gives it enough clearance. Is that what this extension is...

Yes, the bar on the M1082 trailer is about 3/8" smaller in diameter than the one on the trucks. Makes sense, since it weighs less. I should have the mold done for those soon (in the coming weeks). I just haven't gotten to the uppers yet. Honestly, this all started because my lower bushings...

I have had my Gen 2 bushings out for a couple of months now. They're working pretty well. Also, I have bushings for the M1082 trailers, based on this new design, coming soon!

There's basically nothing in the box. It's a lunchbox sized electrical enclosure, with a single circuit breaker inside. Honestly, it's a hassle to have that bulky extra part, and if you are designing your own just put a big Max fuse inline somewhere convenient.

I wouldn't want to try to offroad out of a trail on just a runflat'd flat tire. So carrying 2 spares is still probably smart. The 3-piece bolt-together "composite" runflats that Simp mentioned are easy to install and deal with. Downside to running them is they add non-trivial rotating mass...

Neither end of mine looks anything like that, clean or dirty. It is very obviously inseparable. Have you checked yours?

Most of the balancing compounds can (e.g. antifreeze, beads, liquid, etc.). It's really only the airsoft pellets that can not.

Sounds about right. I haven't tried it myself, but I did use some off-the-shelf balancing compound in some large ~180lb off road tires on another truck, and I think it took 14-16oz. So it seems reasonable a tire about 2x as heavy would require about 2x as much. They're available pretty much...

The truck is essentially all metric, with some exceptions. Basically, if there was a part that didn't come in metric, that didn't stop them from using it, such as the nuts on the back of the speedometer. Also, inside some things are imperial (they didn't really intend for Army mechanics to...

I'm not sure what you're suggesting. As soon as you pull the large plug to get the shaft out, most of it comes out. Plus, since they are the same as the front hub, that would only save you 11-13oz each, which isn't really much savings when you have to buy almost 7 gallons of fluid. When I did...

Front Axle Differential: SAE 75-W90, 9.5 qt Rear Axle Differential: SAE 75-W90, 18.05 qt Front Axle Planetary Hubs: SAE 75-W90, 11-13 fl oz (each) The total is almost 7 gallons. Mine took every bit of that.

Pretty late to the party. The inexpensive "scrapped" ones from Texas are long gone. Now you're looking at a few thousand dollars per axle ($3500?), and up.

I know you're already done, but if it helps with any ideas, I saved a few other winch-mounting pictures I've seen. And now I've saved yours too. :)

Can you still fit a tow bar on there ?

You can get detroit lockers for the axles. I have one in the rear on mine.

Then run the cover. You can run it in quite a wide range of temperatures.

The covers are fairly cheap, and fold up small, so you might as well own one. However, if you're having to wonder if/when you should put it on, then you probably don't need it. It becomes fairly obvious when you do, because the truck idling for an hour won't budge the temp gauge needle off the...

In places like Texas you probably never need the cover, and in places where you do need it, you can leave it on until spring. The manual says something like not to put it on until you have sustained temperatures below 40°F, and then you don't need to take it off until sustained temperatures are...

He's in Alaska, so it must work "good enough". However, logically I would say that the stock cover will work better, and/or more consistently. The stock cover blocks the radiator surface directly, always cutting off a predictable amount of airflow. The custom cover above is only covering the...

The purpose of the open hub method is that you actually get to measure it directly. You measure it, and know exactly how it stands. The TM method is a theoretical "dead reckoning". You take it apart, measure all the parts, add them up mathematically, and the answer should be close to how it...