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Are you aware of the TMs (Technical Manuals)? This is a fairly close description of the TMs themselves, which are complete with individual instructions on how to repair/replace most individual components, toubleshooting guides, wiring diagrams, etc. Also worth pointing out is that the full set...

I think a lot of the diamonds are in the wrong places, or at least would be confusing to people new to the FMTV. For example... - Diamond 1 (compressor gear nut loose) should be where diamond 3 is, directly on the front of the compressor. - Diamond 2 (governor oil line) should be lower...

Have a link?

The TMs list Bills of Materials to create lots of the cables. You could go look it up and see if the part number for the cable gets you anywhere.

I installed my litter racks in the trailer, with only the bottom bunk on, to be used as benches for a parade.

Official government Dremel work here...

This is what I did as well. It ruined the torx bit, but got the screws out. Easy $10 sacrifice.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_International "Rockwell International also spun off its automotive division as a publicly traded company, Meritor Automotive, based in Troy, Michigan, which then merged with Arvin Industries to form Arvin Meritor. That company is now known as Meritor, Inc."

No pictures?

Your sides are fiberglass? All mine are aluminum. Interesting. Nothing at all powers up? Maybe swap a couple of the relays?

I just run the 55PSI from the CTIS controller. The chart is supposed to be a booklet, so the two pages go side by side. I put them together a while back, since I don't care about anything else in the pamphlet.

Biggest problem for me has been removing the bolt-pin-things on the troop seat uprights that hold them to the bed side uprights. They have a slot you are supposed to be able to put a screwdriver in, and then turn the nut, but mine are severely rusted together (oddly, pretty much the only rust...

That about sums it up, with a lot of emphasis on the "newer" for me.

Because they are awesome, and have a ton of capabilities. But they do cost a lot to own and operate, so if you're unsure if you can stomach the cost, you've already lost. You have to want it enough that the cost doesn't matter, because if you don't have some other requirement that excludes...

If you shift into 7th at 44MPH with stock gears, you would be shifting at ~56MPH with 3.07:1 gears. (3.90/3.07) = 1.27 44MPH * 1.27 = 55.9MPH I'm trying to check the math on Tenmogger's shift from 6th to 7th at 44MPH... Tire: 395/85R20 diameter is 46.437", and multiply by pi to get 145.886"...

My gas mileage doesn't change much. It's basically 5MPG at worst (loaded, driving over I-70 from Denver to Utah, or in heavy offroad terrain) and 7MPG at best (unloaded, driving across Arizona on relatively flat terrain). With the 290HP engine and 3.07:1 gears, I can maintain about 45MPH...

I have a 290HP 3116 out of an M1083 in my M1078A0. I changed the engine before the gears, so I don't know what it would do with a stock 225HP engine. I can hit about 72MPH on level ground. I keep it at 65MPH (which is just after the shift into 7th gear at 60-62MPH [GPS verified] for me)...

~300 miles to destination, ~600 miles round trip, at ~6MPG, equals ~100 gallons of diesel, or $300

What benefit are people seeking with 2.87:1 gears? Are you trying to go 80MPH? I have 3.07:1 gears, and the >20% drop in torque (to gain the >20% speed) is noticeable. If I had the option, I would be choosing something between 3.9 and 3.07... whatever was just enough to get me a reasonable...

As I've said in other posts (and you should search for other posts, because this question is asked and answered way too many times), if you're having to ask, you are already not going to like the answer. If you're not coming at this like "I want this thing, and will do whatever it takes" then...