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Heat (around 230 F and some penetrating oil. Try just hammering on it to help break the rust loose and let the oil soak in. i ran into seizing issue with my water pump. Heat beat and oil worked, especially after i broke a flange and exposed the oring. Them it didnt matter, i was forced to heat...

Not that i could see. Seemed to have been just corroded in place. The new 1 went in with no issues. Im thinking bout drilling and tapping to use the 2 short bolts as a jack bolt.

After more heat and beat, i broke an ear off, but noticed it starting move outward, so i proceeded to beat on the pulley till it fell out. The new went in no problem, but i lubed it with an anti-seize compound, along with the mount bolts. Next thing to clean will be the filling tank. Ill take...

what is the secret to removing the water pump? iv tried the heat, beat and repeat for bout 15 min. not an area that i feel comfy prying against to try and pry from top and bottom to wiggle it out. iv also got a penetrating oil soaking and even heated it up till the oil started bubbling then...

yes sir, i can make out the spacer. well, if that swap works for you w/o a lot of major driveline modifications (xmsn to xfr case and xfr back to fwd axle), i'll try and locate 1 of those xmsns and take some measurements and make sure it'll fit in my 936A2. i truly hate automatic xmsns enough...

then by those numbers, they are the same distance from block to aft face of housing. Unless with the spacer, its 6” total.

Best i can measure, housing is 6.5” to the eng block.

Boy if they dont find a way to screw it up between models. I wonder if machining the bell housing (if the bolt holes are deep enough) down would allow the 2 to be mated up. Any idea how much deeper the bell housing is? Actually, how deep is a 250 housing? Ill go measure my housing.

How far back would the 8.3 cause it to sit back?

Thats not a bad price. Is he gonna give the rest of the eng a good look over just so you dont have an issue a few miles down the road? You just fix on that one cyl or yank all of them and replace what is needed?

I hadnt looked into the dealer, mostly bc im 99% sure the cost will be outrageous and an oem part will be steel, as where im wanting go stainless. Appreciate the offer of the bead roller, but the rolled end couplings are a few dollars, i need practice tig welding, plus i need to order a fuel...

Gotcha.

what are you calling constant tq clamps? The rolled ends are $7 and the 90 is $27. The rolled end couplings/necks are 0.057” thick, and im not sure how easy stainless will bend compared to say exhaust/muffler pipe for cars and small tcks/suvs. If it bends as easy, then yes sir, 1 pipe bent to...

so, after pulling the coolant system apart and started cleaning. i noticed the cross over tube #4 and the thermostat housing outlet neck #22 were heavily corroded and at the rolled flared ends, are corroded through and the weld sesm is starting to separate at the rolled end. #25 was also heavily...

Go to tm 9-2320-272-2 page 1063 next to the page up/down arrows or in the left column with table of content, work pkg, groups, click the drop down menu in pages and go 0515 for the break down of the boom extn cyl. Do a google search for some of the packings/retainers and see what pops up. Try a...

i used to have a hydraulic stanley rescue chain saw. I was told it was used by tapping in to an acft hydraulic system to be used for rescue by the first acft on the scene. As for the full layout, i was curious as to what folks carry, not what the bii is. No sense in carrying tools that i wont...

I just checked my A2 and the boxes are 20” (lip to back of hinge) x 44. What do ya’ll carry for BII? My truck came 2 ea. And 1ea of Any idea of the WLL of the 2 blocks on the tool boxes? The 1 with the smaller sheave and non swiveling hook has an 8 casted on it, so im thinking 8 tons, but...

that is definitely a modded truck id much rather have compared to my A2. Esp free spool rear and different boom winch. Iv thought bout yarding the bed off the parts truck and putting a civi crane, riggers and bed on it.

I didnt think the A2 has a free spool rear. I know my A2 rear doesnt free spool. Which is what i hate about it, along with a few other dislikes.

Kinda what i was talking about, but i want the axle to pivot and the dolly frame rigidly connected to the tck near the bumperettes then the GN connected to the dolly. The tlr wt and load will be spread between the dolly and tck.