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If dav5 cant help you out I have a 88-22829 for you. It's also a heavy duty version like the 75902LV.

One would get the equivalent boost if desired when running 120 or 120/240 too. The new VRs come pre-set to output nominal voltage but can be boosted up by adjusting the new front panel voltage potentiometer. If more voltage is needed there is a small potentiometer on the VR that can be...

Ray70 That was my hunch too.

Kurt here. Feel free to PM me

The photo on the GMG site of it is exactly the same photo on Amazon so I suspect it's the same starter from DB Electrical. Same specs listed too. For others following the one on Amazon is half the price of the GMG.

Unfortunately the OV fault sensing logic is inside the inverter. Have you tried moving the voltage adjust back and forth a few times before starting? Some people have experienced issues with their inverters due to moisture and high humidity. Some have had good results by running the engine for...

Where did you buy the starter from? Who was the distributor? I ask because I bought a spare to have for my 802 from DB Electrical via Amazon...

A potential replacement candidate for the 8906K4519 S5 Interruptor switch is a Honeywell 2TL1-70. They are about $35 from DigiKey and others. The contact operation of the 2TL1-70 is slightly different than the 8906K4519 so some wires would go to different terminals. I haven't tried it but it...

To my knowledge the leads would be irrelevant. Shouldn't matter which lead is which. Just generates pulses to S14 to determine if the set is mostly up to speed.

For #1 I'd suggest measuring the AC voltage across each of the Burden Resistors R10, R11 & R12. Normally the voltage across each will vary from 0 VAC at 0% Load to 5.6 VAC at 100% Load. At 133% Load the AC voltage across them would be 7.5 VAC. By checking each of the voltages you'll narrow down...

PM me your email address. I'll send you the adjustment procedure written by GAC. Better written than the TM.

The two 831's I pick up a few years back both had flakey governor controllers. Both were fresh resets with 2 hrs on them. That's what inspired me to make the replacement governor controllers for the 831's.

I forgot to mention, the 197 volts indicates the engine is running way to fast at no load. 197 VAC corresponds to the RPM for ~110% Load. At no load the voltage should be ~178 VAC which corresponds to ~3,050 RPM At full load the voltage should be ~193 VAC which corresponds to ~3,450 RPM

If K12's LED is ON that means the sets Fault system detected a fault. When that happens 24 volts is removed from the governor controller. When that happens the arm is suppose to swing all the way back and stick to the magnet causing the engine to stop. Your J to H voltage is correct Your 197...

You won't get 24 volts there until the set is running. What happens the moment you flip S1 to RUN 24 volt power is there for a split second. Power gets immediately remove since the fault monitor detects a Low Oil Pressure situation and trips the K12 Fault relay. When you start the set with S1...

If the RPM doesn't change then it sounds like the Governor Controller is defective. Very common. I offer replacement Governor Controllers

Could be that the Governor Controller is faulty and isn't putting out enough current to cause the arm to lift off the magnet. The 10 ohms is correct for the resistance of the actuator. After you start it does the RPM increase as you apply a load to the generator or does it run at the same RPM...

It was designed to run standalone so that it would work in a worse case scenario, no utility power, no internet, no router, off grid cabin, etc. Wasn't set up to integrate onto a network. It will work over WiFi with any device with WiFi and a browser withing WiFi range. (Smart Phone, tablet...

Do you have good battery(s) in the set? Try this. Lift the arm off the magnet. Then move S1 from STOP the RUN position and see if the arm twitch's or not. The Governor Controller (if working properly) sends out a quick pulse of power to the actuator to lift the arm off the magnet prior to...

I just tore down an 831 inverter and indeed there is an 80 amp relay that connects L1 to L2 inside the inverter when in 120 V mode.