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***BACKGROUND*** Before I began this escapade, I read practically every forum and post regarding swapping the NV4500 into the Chevy squarebody trucks. None I found were very comprehensive or straight forward and most were a lot of heresay about what fits and what doesn't. So I want to leave this...

ebay, just searched for 1987 c10 manual pedal assembly. They are very expensive for a rusty piece of metal. I sanded and repainted mine so at least it looks new.

Resurrecting this thread real quick. Did you use the 2" tubing to raise the trans/t-case up 2" or 4"? I have some 2" tubing now but I think there was some miscommunication whether or not the tube was horizontal giving 2" of space, or vertical and cut to 4" of space.

I got mine installed. No fabrication at all. I bought Vacuum brake/Hydraulic Clutch pedal assembly and just put the auto brake pedal into the assembly. Works great.

I currently have a dana 70hd that used to be a dually, but the previous owner was just running the inner wheel with a stock m1008 bed. I don't really want to run dual tires, but I would like to keep the dana 70. I read that single tire on dually axles can put stress on the bearings and cause...

Everythings back together now. Easily the most annoying part of this swap so far.

Been looking around, mostly at delco alternators. Can't find one that would physically fit the bolt pattern. Most of the 10si and 12si are on 6.5" centers, while the original 27si the cucvs came with are on 8 1/4" centers? Anyone know of any one wire alts that fit the bolt pattern on the 6.2...

I've done the roscommon 12v conversion, so I only have Gen 2. The way I understand it is that the brown wire is the exciter so the alternator will start charging at idle. But after some testing I see that it self excites at a quick rev to 3k rpm or so. So IF the relay was completely...

Been staring at the wiring diagrams for a little while, what does the relay do? What is the purpose of the 2 pin connector on the back of the alternators?

Yes, it just pushed the shifter spring assembly further up. Didn't hurt anything.

Took the steering column in and out probably 5 times. Couldnt really find any good instructions on reassembling it, so trial and error. Finally figured out, bolt the lower shaft to the steering box, then the upper dash bolts, then the firewall clamp. All that after pulling it out and assembling...

Unfortunately the TM does not show Unfortunately the TM does not show how to get the lower shaft back on. And now the bearing is seated too far up and I have no way of pulling it back down.

Took my steering column out for my manual pedal install, and as I was pulling the column further out, the lower bearing popped off and now I am having trouble getting it back on. Any tips to push this bearing back on?

Well, the dimples definitely aren't perfect. I elected to keep the mounting holes in the same place and change the main hole position. Not very clean, but clamped securely. Now I just have to figure out how to reinstall the steering column...

I hope I didn't just destroy my firewall. Got my hands on a master cyl and the holes do not line up at all. Also the whole thing is at an angle. Any reason why the dimples don't line up properly?

Can't find much online for the size, maybe 3/4 or 1 1/4"?

Can't find any master cyls at local parts stores, so might have to order one.

Ah I see them now! I have the supports so I can match a drill bit to that, do you happen to know the size of hole saw needed for the cylinder itself?

The hole I think you are seeing in my pic is one that looks to have been used to mount the electrical connector block to the firewall. It lines up with it.

They definitely aren't the correct size, I hope they are in the right place. Does it matter how exact the master cyl is mounted? How much lee-way do I have?