Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Seal for the back of the hub 5330-00-410-2329/11640306
Bearing seals 5330-00-781-9639/11602255
5330-00-782-1444/11602142
Spindle seals 5330-00-781-9639/11602255
5330-00-143-8378/MS51001-23-2
First number is national stock number, followed by the part...
I am trying to prime my transfer case oil pump, following the instructions in the TM. I can pull a steady flow of oil through with a suction gun but all I can get by manually actuating the pump is a dribble. Is this normal or should I be able to get a steady flow manually?
Thanks
My goal is to have it cranking by the weekend, I have to jerry rig a fuel supply as my tanks are off. I'm going to crank it off the slave cable for power. I would love to have a FMTV but for now I'll have to settle on the old goat.
Care package from TX today, all parts in stock, speedy shipping and no overcharges, can't ask for any better service. Mark, thanks for bailing me out again. Now back to the garage.
Sounds like you did it right, check the spark plug wires to make sure they are in the correct firing order. With #1 at TDC check to see if the rotor button is pointing at the #1 spark plug lead on the cap.
If no voltage at the wire you need to trace it back, I'm not familiar with your wiring but you need to find the source of 24 volts to this wire. It is possible that the switch is bad. To test the alternator you could use a test lead and connect the 24+ at the alternator and the sense wire at...
There is a 24v sense wire going to the alternator, if I remember correctly you should see battery voltage at that wire with the ignition on. If you have voltage at the wire with the switch on and have cranked the adjust screw all the way up then I would say the alternator is bad.
I have been able to grease all of mine with a standard grease gun. I did grind a flat face on one side of the end to make it fit easier in some places and use a flexible hose. I did change out a few fittings to 90 degree to make it easier as well on the outer center axle u joints. It is a...
Tailgate blasted and primed, it was a NOS unit that had sat in a wet box and got rusty. She shows some pitting in the recess but the tools should cover most of it. Seems strange an all aluminum truck would have a steel tailgate, the choice of steel sure wasn't for strength.
The lower front left fender bracket was missing/ripped off so I had to fabricate one. I made a cardboard template from the RH bracket and used it to trace one out on a section of damaged goat fender. Bent it in the vice using some heat from a propane torch along the edge, I'm quite happy with...
Put Tom's packing material to good use as weather seal on the air duct, they are 3/4x3/4, finished the LH side of the engine hook up and finished the spin on filters. Installed the surge tank and all but 1 hose, replaced all with new. Clutch linkage is in and adjusted and working smooth...
There is a used one on ebay for sale item 172217259874, but as I look at it there are two in the picture, you want the one on the left, might ask him first which is for sale. It's a buy it now so I don't believe I am breaking any rules posting the item number, if I am moderators please delete it.
Before I spent more time or money on the transmission I would evaluate the condition of the rest of the drive train. Drain each and check for water and look inside the best you can for rust. Check the engine to see if it is free and if coolant is in the oil. Pull the inspection plug on the...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!