Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Cooper Discover ST MAXX on my 1031. 8 inch reproduction rims, 4 inch back space. Perfect fit, NO death wobble. Recently had a rare blizzard down here, perfect traction. Used 4WD for over 50 miles.
Wuhan War Whistles are good for one thing, mock up to make certain it will fit. AeroCharger charges more for their mockup kit but it is refunded when you pay the 25 hundred clams for their turbo. Not a bad deal, it's an interesting variable geometry design too.
What is the engine speed when you are getting 7 PSI of boost? A turbo for a 3 liter gasoline engine that can do 6000 RPM is about right for a 6.2 liter engine turning over at 3600 RPM. Why? Diesel engines cannot have valve overlap, both valves must be closed before top dead center so...
Front is TISS, rear is TOSS. That may or may not work as post 1998 models use integration between the engine and transmission via controller area network bus (CAN buss). Beyond my pay grade to know specifics.
Search the archives. Sounds like the ramp signal is excessive. You need a good multimeter to diagnose since the frequency meter may or may not be good. Get one that measures frequency. Could also be the PTO Hall effect sensor, this requires an oscilloscope to diagnose.
The frequency...
The stock 4L80 transmission has the input speed sensor on the forward clutch. I have heard of some transmission where it is moved to the pump. The pump is driven off the torque converter shell so it is the same as the engine speed.
I know TCI controllers need engine speed sensor.
The Hazard Fraught DVM is adequate, no need to buy a yellow oddball one for 500 doll hairs. I have two Klein DVMs, I had to get a clamp type to measure current and it served me well over our Valentines Day blizzard when power was out for days.
A multimeter should be in every tool box. It will tell you more than the stock voltmeter.
The alternator regulator connection with the two wires? There is a latch on the front.
Follow the alternator test procedure sticky on the top of this forum.
The most likely cause of your problems...
No need to cut it off, just unplug and tie off. This terminal is provides an alternating current signal for the test port under the dash by where the civi radio would be. As Barrman stated, for the STE-ICE diagnostic tool. The only wires necessary for charge are the two wire plug and the...
Certain transmission control modules use both engine tach and transmission input shaft speed differential to delay torque converter lock up when there is slip in the converter. If the engine tach signal is not calibrated correctly, it can prevent TC lock up or create harsh lockup.
My finger is pointing to the terminal that is for the tach module buffer. It is a snap on boot. Driver side alternator. This is an alternating current with frequency proportional to engine RPM. The Dakota Digital module will convert this to a tach level signal of pulses per revolution which...
Sounds like a good DIY project. It isn't hard, just time consuming. At the bare minimum, replace head gaskets and use ARP head stud kit. Follow the -34 TM , keeping pushrod orientation known, a paint marker is good. A good pressure wash of the heads and dye penetrant test will show...
Stock CUCV alternators have a tach signal connection. Depending on transmission control module, you may need signal conditioning. Dakota Digital has a module for this purpose.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!