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The total with shipping was $115.55, I shipped my old ones to the GA store to copy. Here are the part numbers:
13.25" X BQ101RB HF31 & HFIM19 2EA @ $22.03
12.00" x BQ101RB HF31 E/E 2EA @ $26.10
The longer hoses are the ones that are exposed and attach to the tractor, the shorter...
Flexible lines arrived for the carrier to tractor. Raining today so I broke out the tubing bender and some 1/4 tube and fabricated the hard lines that mount on the carrier flex coupling. Will unbolt the engine mountings today and perhaps will pull the engine power pack this weekend. Glad to...
Well it seems there is a demand for goat thread activity so here is what I have. First a stuck engine, plan is to pull the engine and get the head off to see what's going on, probably a re-sleeve and new pistons at a minimum. I received a few parts recently and finished the final two lights...
The only two official storage bags were the tool pouch and document bag attached to the rear of the drivers seat. I suppose they would fit in the tm bag, the goat doesn't seem to have any real hidy holes to stash stuff.
I recall two reasons for the exhaust pipe move, one to help prevent fumes from entering the carrier and to prevent swimming. I don't see it preventing the goat from swimming as the water line is well below the exhaust manifold. I think the fume issue is the most plausible. Mine has the...
All the fuel lines should be 1/4" steel tubing. I recently restored a M38A1, I used standard brake line tubing. You will want to buy a tubing bender and a double flaring tool if you don't already have one. Or you could cheese out and just buy them pre made from one of the many jeep supply stores.
I took the injectors out and poured Kroil in several times over two weeks. If that did not free it up than there is something wrong that needs attention. Not too hard to pull the power pack, just more work and $$$$ for parts.
Pulled the goat out today on the tow bar to try and rock the engine free, tried for 20 minutes or so. Saw a micro movement of the crankshaft pulley but that was it. If I pulled it too hard it just slipped the clutch, so it appears to be stuck pretty well. So the build just got that much more...
The bearing should slide freely on the input shaft, you can also replace the return spring on the bearing if it has one and see if any oil is leaking out by the input shaft and if so change that seal.
No it can't. You may be able to unbolt the transmission and slide it back enough to replace the bearing but the input shaft has to come back far enough to slide the bearing off.
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