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I was all over eBay for about 6 months finding the best deals for all the parts. Then I shopped around a lot for a cheap but quality local transmission shop. They had flat rates for a lot of basic jobs, made it a lot cheaper than hourly rates.

Do you already have a 4l80? Total cost for my 4l80 alone was $2500 including parts and labor. For the engine and all that fun stuff, I haven't kept track. I'm thinking it was a little more expensive since a lot of the accessories on my gep engine were damaged when it was removed from the last...

I swear my turbo engine at 2200 rpm sounded like my 6.2w/ 3 spd at 3000 rpm. Thats why the next thing on my list is 2.56 gears. Im at 2.73 and definitely won't miss the torque once I put in the new ones. I got a new doghouse and coated the inside with sound deadening spray, ordered new...

Added it myself. I go on too many side slopes not to have it ;). Ive had two wheels on one side off the ground once, scary ****.

Just finished up my GEP turbo swap. Had to do a lot of insulation on the doghouse to get it as quiet as my old 6.2. Loving the extra power though!

If you have x doors I would suggest getting a frag 5 door seals. I have a 4 man soft top and have zero water problems and I've been in some crazy rain storms. The seal kits are in eBay and work really well. One box easily covers one door.

It's a brand new doghouse. New gasket. Problem the turbo doghouse uses no high mass insulators. Just a reflective heat barrier and the fiberglass the cover itself is made of. The NA doghouse has that thick mass loaded insulation.

Yeah I have some wrap laying around. The heat shield seems to be doing a good job. But heat isn't my problem, it's just the noise. It's stupid the engine sounds the same standing outside the vehicle with the hood open as it does when sitting inside.

Yeah that's what I initially kinda did with the boom mat spray on insulation. Got a good coating but no where as good as the original NA doghouse rubber.

Ive done some research into lead rubber sheets and they seem to be much more effective than foam. I just don't know where to get the right stuff.

I just finished up my 6.5 turbo swap from my old 6.2 and took it out on the road yesterday and practically went deaf going 45 mph. I had my 4l80 mated with my 6.2 before and at 50 it was relatively quiet, I could actually have a conversation at that speed. Now I'm screaming at passengers above...

Humvees are independent suspension, diff bolts to the frame. Disconnect the half shafts, driveshaft and the supports for the diff. Drop the thing out. I think I'll remove the diff and dissasemble it for my local shop then they can do the precision work and I'll reinstall it. Probably much...

The reason I am skeptical is because I have torn about geared hubs before on a whim and it's a really simple thing to do. Only precision part is shimming a cover plate.

I thought changing the ratio was just installing new ring and pinion gears? What special things need to be done that would be worth $1600 of work. That sounds like a rip off personally. I spent $2500 on my 4l80 conversion.

I already have a 4l80. That conversion have a ~800 rpm reduction. 2.56 gears would give me a 200 rpm reduction from what I've heard. 1/4 of the rpm drop for about a 1/12th of the cost, worth it for me, personally. 200 rpm reduction is the difference between 55 and 60, and auditory-wise its...

Thats the reason I'm looking into the diff regearing. Since I will be swaping in a turbo I thought I wouldn't miss the torque off road and get a little more reduction in rpms for highway cruising.

Technically? Do 2.56 diffs have any other different parts compared to the 2.73? I assumed they were identical? Extra torque from the turbo engine? Or...?

What is required to change a 2.73 differential to a 2.56 geared one? Can I throw the ring and pinion of a 2.56 in it and be fine or do I need more?

Why does the assembly use that bar? What's it's purpose? I could save a lot of time if it were just two tall feet that use the existing bolt holes.

I've seen that part on ebay. only problem is the bottom side looks like the only mounting holes are in the middle, requiring drilling into the body. Why could these tall feet just use the same 4 bolt holes that the small feet use? Why do I need that support bottom plate?