Search results

All upgrades. 6.5T 4l80 242 t case, 2.56 gears. New driveshafts for 4l80, half shafts break over time... I've managed to take out a few hubs...

red dot sheet showed the identical bracket, but just with the idler pulley in place of the pancake compressor. System works fine without the tensioner pulley in the new hole. Belt is a little large, still tight but not what it should be. I'll be heading out to napa/oreilly/autozone sometime to...

Normal. Every time I shift into D or R from a stop it clunks into gear. Ive replaced my engine, transmission and transfer case. As well as each driveshaft twice, the diffs rebuilt, half shafts replaced, hubs replaced.... clunk still there.

Yep would agree there. Just installed it back in the original hole. Runs fine, belts a but loose, might get one a bit shorter cause the tensioner is jumping around a tiny bit... Dang so I drilled that hole for no reason... I knew the pancake braket didn't need it...

That tensioner has been through a lot. I'm not surprised. It's been shattered to pieces and put back together.... Lol I wouldn't say it's a good thing to have this setup, all my experience with red dot has been horrible. My last compressor failed about 2 months with only a week total in...

That's not correct? The kit is a serpentine red dot kit. The instructions most definitely say and show redrilling of the pin hole and a serpentine belt in one photo. I had the 5 belt v belt setup before this on my 6.2 and that was way simpler, and also no drilling there.

1. Belt was 100% tight. Tensioner pin definitely was in the hold, verfied several times before installation. 2. It's a possiblity, I will be disassembling the area tomorrow and examining what went wrong. 3. Slow down there, I didn't use a pancake compressor, I threw away the pancake and I am...

Yes this is frustrating. And no it's not my lack of mechanical knowledge. You know the funny thing ? This is the first project I've done on my truck in 3 years where I actually followed the instructions EXACTLY. I've even given myself the benefit of the doubt and gone through to make sure I...

Not 30 minutes after I start the truck up, the tensioner snaps back to the loose position and starts grinding. The hole DID NOT need to be redrilled. Now I have a belt that needs replacing and a vehicle sitting disabled in an mwr parking lot. I'll have to rip the whole system out and move the...

Currently at a school, and have zero of my tools, and the one toolkit I do have is taking up all the personal storage space I have. I'll have to borrow a drill (cause f**k buying one) or ship mine from home. I just wanted to see if I could simplify the process, but it appears not.

Dang, what would happen if I didn't change the orientation? I have the later style pancake compressor currently installed, does that make a difference?

I was just looking through the instructions for the compressor And it says to redrill the hole for the tensioner pulley, but I don't have access to a drill. Does anyone know if it's actually required to redrill that hole?

Yes, immediately.

I just replaced my 6.2 with a GEP 6.5Turbo take out about 6 months ago. If you can find a mostly complete engine, then order any missing/broken parts of the new engine... It will drop right in place of the 6.2. All cooling, fuel, and oil lines will match right up. Everything bolts right in...

Are there any lighter steel aftermarket rims? The switch to 17" would expand my tire options. BFGs mud terrain 37s weigh in at 70 lbs. And I'm thinking of getting them but I need to find a good quality lighter rim.

I've determined that I want to drop the military wheels/tire and swap them out for some civilian ones. I am currently running paired spacing 24 bolt rims with 37 BFG Baja E with runflats. My main reason for wanting to change is to shed as much weight off the tires as possible, for less...

Yeah pull the cluster and it should be easy to get at the stud. Pull the doghouse as well to access the back of the stud to tighten it if it's loose.

Sounds like a bad regulator.

There's a panel ground wire, then there's the body ground wire. Body ground stud is behind the dash tucked to the upper right behind the heater control. Should be two ground wires on that stud. That body stud comes loose all the time and causes problems often.

As far as I know all fuel pumps are the same for NAs and turbos. . Are you talking about the injection pump?