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Jerry said that the position of the balancer to the rim would not affect the performance if it was offcenter by 1 to 2 inches. My intent was to slip the balancer on, then torque the spacer on top of it. I'm even thinking that some blue LocTite would help as well. I too was surprised at riveted...

Not sure what you mean by cutouts. This lip on the rim has no place to go on my centramatic. I just sent an email to Jerry to see if he has anything else. I want to avoid using spacers if possible. I've run them before with big tires but I'm not into pulling wheels and torquing the spacer...

400-448 which are for a 1ton application although 17" rim. I spoke with Jerry before. I'm wondering if these would fit better: http://centramatic.com/ShowItemDetail.aspx?id=12532 I want the larger size for the heavier tires but I have that weird lip that interferes. If it wasnt there, I could...

I am running 37" Goodyears on my M1031 with what I believe are late 70's Ford Campers Special rims or from a late 80's F350. They are 16.5x9.75 rims that actually fit quite well with the width and backspacing. I just purchased H1 Centramatic balancers and they clear the axles/brakes fine. I...

Normal backfeeding when you lose a fuse. Sometimes you just can't explain the logic behind electricity flow in that situation. I agree, would certainly take time to clean up any grounds on the gas tank. Mine had a few splices in the sender wire. I replaced it with one new wire, solderless butt...

From my build, a 4" lift required grinding on the CV at full droop when on the lift. It would install ok at ride height but would start to bind when I picked up the truck and let the front axle go full droop. Obviously this all is determined by spring rate, shock length, etc. Another solution...

Weird. I've never tested a gauge with a 9v battery, not sure what that would do inside the cluster. You should be able to take the signal wire going from the gauge to the sender and test it. Disconnect and the gauge will read either max full or empty (forget which way it swings), then touch...

Run and find a new shop Standard K5 blazer...period. Toe and blow alignment if all is good in the front axle. Can't easily adjust camber or caster. You could practically do it with a tape measure.

Rich I don't want you to take that is criticism, you are going to regret that move. If anything you would want to sacrifice pinion angle to increase positive caster. Stock caster is OK with bigger tires, a few degrees extra like 3-5 degrees is awesome. It is going to keep the truck tracking...

I just did a double take too. Thought to myself, how did the concrete driveway appear so quickly??? Nice rig!!!

Have you priced out a decent off road tire in your size range that will fit on a stock 16" CUCV rim? The Goodyears I'm assuming will set you back $400 for the set, plus the rims $200, spacers $150 (aluminum)...you may just be better and cheaper buying a set of new rubber instead. The Goodyears...

They are very rugged batteries. A friend of mine actually had his yellow top fall out of his truck (threaded rod snapped that held it down) and he went back to find it on the trail with a big swamper track across it. The quality is very hit or miss. I personally have had numerous yellow and red...

Had mine over two years and they are still kicking strong. That includes extended periods of sitting connected without a charger during winter storage. Can't beat the price and availability either. Any special use like heavy winch or aux accessories? If not, don't waste your money on a gel...

This is a simple throw money or labor at it kinda fix. Leave your front axle alone, position it where you need it in order to clear tires or steering linkage...that is perfectly fine. If your front driveshaft is not vibrating from operating at an excessive ujoint at the axle end, you are doing...

Wow, this is a nice change of pace on the forum.

What is everyone using a 6.2 for that it needs a high volume oil pump? Unless you are installing a twin turbo and having it balanced to spin 8,000rpms, you have no need for a "high volume" oil pump. Again, don't re-engineer the entire system. Put the larger filter on and go, simple as that...

You should set aside a budget of about $1500-2000 to start, begin at the front bumper and finish at the rear. All rubber needs to be replaced, all electrical connections need to be cleaned, alternators could probably use a fresh rebuild, new batteries, new fuel filter (highly recommend a spin...

Not rocket science, fab a new bump stop setup. No pain...no gain

OK, this scares me I would become quite familiar with the truck (especially it's shortcomings which can be fixed in the wiki) before doing anything. If you can't tell the difference between a NATO slave port and a block heater plug, a crash course may be needed before something catastrophic or...

Could always run a u-bolt eliminator http://www.cutthroat4x4.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=103 I had them on my Toyota on 37's which was moderately thrashed, never had an issue. Of course it all boils down to quality and installation so buyer beware. That should solve your clearance...