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I just saw The Rover which had a RHD M998 HMMWV because it takes place in Australia. The movie was absolutely terrible but this was the only redeeming quality. The movie also had a Chevy based crew cab pickup which is a Holden branded Colorado. A rather interesting part was that it had what...

Seems to be pretty common on anything mechanical or electrical. My only concern would be a longer filter hanging low on a truck that sees offroad service. A longer filter never drainsback so you have no pressure issues on start up and increased service life with more filter pleats. This is why...

I agree, time for a u bolt flip. Those are pretty flawed when you live up north, they are great for catching road salt.

Even if you pedal assembly doesn't have it, you could drill it out and install a normally open or closed depending on where you put it momentary contact switch somewhere on the linkage or near the pedal arm itself. Just run the ground from the starter relay (no where on my relay does it say...

$60, I would shop around though. Due diligence always pays off. http://dieselcare.ecrater.com/p/12984850/12v-shut-off-solenoid-for-stanadyne

Wow, makes me think my Cuck is complicated like a space shuttle. Look at the smallest wire diameter in the protected circuit, figure the length that wire runs, then read a simple chart to determine what the maximum current it supports. With a slow burn fuse, that's your fuse size. You are simply...

Haters be hatin' today!!! :) I need a wheel chock because one day I will get a real MV and then...uh hem...will need a wheel chock! OBA could mostly fit under the hood and probably could sneak a few impact tools under the seats up front.

Sounds like some on-board air and a chain saw would fit the bill! Seriously, all you wankers would be worry free with a M1031. I carry my generator, air compressor, and welder with me everywhere I go...why is this such an issue???

No doubt ah yut Seriously, a small 2000 watt generator off craigslist will let you run most tools all day long without having to refit everything to the Cuck. Or simply run air off the engine or run cordless...feel like this is reinventing the wheel unless you already have the mil spec tools...

Probably southern accent... I'm from New Englad so I like to throw a 'bub guy' or a 'yes sah' in there once in awhile.

I'm going to jump on the brakes here...these trucks are 30 years old. Period! Technology back then going from a glass fuse to an automotive ATO blade fuse. Wonderful when we want cast iron gear drive transfer cases and kingpin front axles. Bad news when we want electrical prowess. Fusible links...

That's a bummer! I think either way, if you bought the truck right then you won't make any bad investments money wise. Sure it will take time but that's half the fun. If you put a new IP in it, rebuilt the alternators, and repaired the usual stuff all to find out that the engine or trans is...

Honestly, I would just plan on a new IP anyway. These things are 30 years old, you will be spending lots of time and money up front on fuel and electrical repairs. Once you refurbish the entire fuel system, you'll know it's good for another 100k miles easy. Welcome to MV ownership ;)

Check to see if solenoid in IP clicks with power. Check for fuel flow in and out of pump. Holler if you need a hand

Run pneumatic and get a York compressor on the engine

Why not just run a cordless tool and charge the battery at home or off a cheap inverter?

Buy an M1031, it can run anything under 12,000 watts

Believe they were around $75 on rockauto.com last time I checked

It's all a poor design that becomes over stressed with age/corrosion. Pretty much all rigs up to the late 80's/early 90's have this issue because the current runs through the headlamp stalk. It's the nature of the beast. Why the rest of the circuits dim when you step on the brake or just over...

Probably set you back $200 to $300 depending on what diameter and wall thickness you need.