Search results

My latch is the same way. I'm not saying it's "right", but it's the same. It will not latch when I put the cab down, or rock the cab, but if I drive it even just down the block a little bit the jostling will wiggle it enough to latch.

I can't speak specifically to this one, but many of the tools and seal drivers have mechanical drawings in the back of the TMs, so that you can make them.

I've also seen a few things that talked about a "fording kit", and that without such a kit it was limited to 30" (if I remember correctly). However, I've never seen the "fording kit", never seen it listed with a part number anywhere, never seen instructions for it, etc. I'm curious if it really...

Yes, the cab lift was meant to include turret and equipment (e.g. M2HB). You should be fine with just a few hundred pounds extra.

Is there a single 24v input to that board, that perhaps you could break one of the circuit traces and install a resistor across the break to drop it to 12V? Or, it looks like there are a bunch of resistors on that second board behind the lights. Could those already be dropping the voltages to...

Looking forward to this. I'll add it to my document.

You can use power steering fluid.

So I think there are two different things being talked about here. This is my interpretation of this conversation now... The original poster was asking about the metal tags on the wires, which are like the "P41" on my coolant temp sensor. That has nothing to do with the wiring codes...

Can you find a die spring on McMaster, or at Lee Spring, to replace it?

Red trim on the wheels is a nice touch. Looks awesome!

If you have trouble finding a piston, you could always get one made. It's not a very complicated part. We would just have to measure up an existing one, and make a model/drawing for it. For what some people want for the whole latch, or other parts, it still may be a cheaper way to go.

Just get someone with a paper die cutter or vinyl cutter (like the ones scrapbookers use) to make you a stencil, and then get a cheap $10 airbrush from Harbor Freight. You should be able to get it perfect like that.

Ok, so how do I utilize the info from that master wiring code list? The tag on this coolant sensor is P41. It's the only metal tag on it I see. I don't understand where those master wiring code numbers are written, or how they come into play.

I don't make the top bushings yet, and Scottmandu's price seems pretty good.

Well put. That's basically what I was thinking, and why I wanted to make something better.

I'm a little confused by this whole post. Take this example... I'm looking at the coolant temperature sensor switch. It has a metal tag, marked "P41". If I look that up in the reference charts in the wiring diagram section of TM 9-2320-365-20-3 it says "WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR". But this...

I got my SHCSs in the mail today, and mounted up one of the 3D printed door handles on the passenger side (in place of that broken window crank someone had put on it). Surprisingly, it seems pretty tough. It fits snug, and you need to use the SHCS to pull it onto the splined shaft. I twisted...

Power windows would be interesting. With how thin the doors are, I wonder if there's enough room in there to fit the motors?

I ordered a set of those, just to see how well they fit. I'm curious if this really is a 7/16" splined shaft on the window. For $13 it's worth finding out.

I've never weighed a big truck before. How and where do you do it?