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Yeah, Unfortunately logic is not an ideal that any government organization possess. I've tried explaining that to them, they tend to ignore it. Lol what dashboard.

Correct me if I'm wrong but all M1123 are usmc. There is no such thing as an army m1123. They have a different designation, I think it is the m1097 that is the army counterpart.

I completely agree with buying a truck in the condition you would eventually turn an older truck into. For me of course there were no A2 trucks when I bought mine. Im surprised there are m1123s going for 10k... last time I checked the ones that actually ran were all being sold for 16-17k

From what I've experienced in California, Oregon, and Washington is that anything 1998, 1997 or generally pre 2000 will be exempt from emissions/smog testing. All three states require the testing no matter what. Even the really relaxed dmvs/dols won't let ya slide by. I think I got the chillest...

The problem with m1123 is they are unregisterable in pretty much most states because they are 2000+ for the year and do not meet emissions, even if they already have a title cause most states require an inspection for just entering the state (ex California) Also you can get an m998 that was in...

Engine swap probably not, but 16k at least for a m1123 vs a couple thousand for a 4l80. Plus at the end of the day you'd have two humvees... take that how you will :D

Didn't sell anything back. I've been cutting up my old harness and re-purposing the connectors that are in good shape. Check out my reply to the other guy.

I really shopped around on ebay. It took me about 4 months to gather together all the parts, slowly finding the cheapest ones and talking people down on prices. You can read about the swap more from Augi's post at g503...

As far as I understand the variable rate springs are softer than the heavy duty springs when unloaded but can withstand heavy loads. H1s had them in the back. So why would I need different control arms if I'm not loading up the rear beyond m998 gvws?

m1123 has a full A2 driveline. GVW is 10K. 6.5 NA 4l80... Most come with red dot a/c systems. Beware they are all barebones (except for the refurbished ones). No doors, roof, or rear seats sometimes... set of good x doors is at least 2500.

For me yes extremely worth it. Now that I've been running around with it, I cannot imagine life with my old 3 speed. Its quiet on surface streets and I can now cruise at 65 no problem, engine is quiet and the ground is loud. There is a pretty good mpg bump, and since I use mine as a commuter...

Did my conversion for $2500 including labor. I did mine all military though, using civi parts would bring that number down.

I am jealous of your friend, would love to talk to him about the banks turbo kit. Been looking around for a turbo that could potentially work.

I mean the differential not the transfer case. 2.56, 2.73, or 3.08

Whats your diff ratio? 2.73 or 2.56?

Transfer case doesn't matter in this case. It's 1:1 in high so I can ignore it. I have a 4l80 so it's a 0.75 overdrive but also has a locking torque converter that is 1:1 but offers Ron reduction as well.

I hate that hose. I have had so much trouble with it. I've replaced it a couple times and have tried all sorts of hose clamps. I check it before every time I go out, cause chances are, its started working itself off and needs tightening.

1.92 is the geared hub ratio, I just multiplied that by the diff ratio and put that in as the diff ratio in the calculator.

Did some math, or I should restate, a website did some math. I went to a couple different engine rpm calculators to see what rpm my engine would be doing at a certain speed with certain ratios. All the ones with plenty of input data were consistent, so heres the one I used...

Looks pretty good, I was looking at their website, is this a fuel additive or a replacement for regular engine oil? Saw a few reviews of people talking about changing their oil and throwing this stuff in.