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I'm going to have to take it to a shop. The studs wouldn't budge with a screw press or a hammer.

Kit was too expensive. I'm using red dot stuff but I am acquiring my own parts. Just looking for the part numbers cause on epay all they list is the part number and not the specific application.

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Say what you will, the steel wheels are pretty hardcore and withstand a lot of crap that they get off road... I've been in situations before where I surely thought the wheel was going to be bent or worse.

So all vehicles were required to have what, lock nuts? lock washers? What was the design they used and how well do they stand up to backing off and causing major problems on the road?

I'll have to check my spindle, but my humvee was in the army reserve up until 2013 at least. Last service was in 2013 with an engine rebuild

**** just found out it's $90 for one wheel... That's just highway robbery... I usually like to be bought dinner before I get ****ed.

What are the nsn's for the hoses you used? Can't find anything in the TMs

Decided to post this problem on here, can anyone identify the noise and the problem? Kinda sounds like something is rubbing inside the alternator? Bearing? https://youtu.be/5wjv0KJCG94

how did you mount the condenser to the radiator stack? Mine looks like that only it's a little smaller and lines up width-wise with the oil cooler. Oh and what hose did you use to run from the compressor/condenser back to the evap/drier? The stock ones wouldn't be correct for the setup am I right?

I have the exact same condenser but I wasn't sure if it would fit under my hood since I have supplemental armor grill.

So now that I am at higher speeds with the 4l80, the thought of the spindle coming off on the freeway is only more stressful. I know that if I check the spindles nothing should happen, but I still want to find a permanent solution to the problem. I heard that h1s had locking nuts on the...

I'm guessing that the drop in voltage was due to my fuel gauge problem, it was reading half when the tank was full. Just replaced it a couple minutes ago and now it all works fine.

Just saw a picture on google where someone took the 4th v belt off the very front groove on the 4 groove pulley and threw it on the compressor. Looks like they only had 1 belt on the power steering and two on the alternator. Can this even work? What would this affect? Who's put the condenser...

Yeah, what is that little box on the dog house? The only wires that are around there for the a/c go into the dash?

Okay so it's fixed. But there was some serious black magic going on in there. I measured 24v coming from the input power wire that originally goes into the fuel gauge. Then measured the +24v pin on the circular connector that plugs into the tach, and amazing it was 2v!!! I had to check twice...

I've checked the wire diagram that came with the tach kit, but other than that I didn't really find any thing in the TMs

Problem is still persistent I have the 24 power hooked into the fuel gauge. I have tried hooking the ground wire up to every possible ground stud I could find on the dash and nothing works. This problem doesnt make any sense as there was simply a body harness change and nothing else then it...

Cool, thats what I thought. Just wanted to see if there were any differences between that and running with a broken half shaft.

high lock locks the normally open differential in the transfer case. Theoretically, if there is no front drive shaft, and the transfer case is in high lock, it will drive both front and rear output shafts equally, but since there is no front shaft it will just spin the output flange. I'm just...