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You got my vote If someone didn't try driving it, your trans is probably 100% OK.

All that good stuff!!! Be sure to check vacuum at the modulator. I don't think the Cuck ever shifts very firm in factory configurations. You could tweak it with an adjustable modulator or a shift kit but I think the way your truck was acting was due to a partial vacuum leak. It now sounds like...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2005398&cc=1053021 I won't be able to install it for a few more days so I can't confirm it it's the right one but this is what the application calls for. I also was unable to see any "Made In" markings on it so no idea where it's manufactured. It...

Wow, we are hinging a truck purchase on a $120 part? (that's for an AC Delco OEM balancer, not the cheaper aftermarket replacement) You also want to make sure the color is right for you too ;)

A rare find...or should I phrase it as a turd in the rough... :) I wonder if that was a low GVW truck with the inline 6 or 318 V8. That would be possible reasons they installed that axle in a W350 truck. When you step up to the Cummins engine, W250 and W350 rigs get the Dana 60 (which may be a...

Dude...intergalactic Cuck Vee shipping isn't cheap these days. Your best bet would be catch a ride with NASA when they go pick up the moon Jeep. I typically don't recommend driving any old questionable vehicle home in fear of breaking down resulting in very expensive recovery or possibly...

That seems like Wikipedia garbage. I believe 1 tons had mixed front axles up to the late 60's and very early 70's. They also had things like drum brakes and closed knuckle frontends which were not exactly great in the domestic versions (Nissan, Toyota, and Land Rover made better versions)...

I'm sure the relays work fine switching a higher voltage, it is still the same amount of wattage. They are probably good up to 36 volts. Plus the switching side is still 12 volts. Will have to see what relays come with the kit and check the specs. I'm not sure GM would carry this heavy duty...

I would think the only difference is the park pawl and the linkage on the main valve which has a saw tooth pattern for detents. All of which SHOULD be serviceable without removing the transmission guts other than the valvebody most likely.

You kill the value of your truck...period. That is one of the great reasons to buy a non-09 Cuck in the first place. You are guaranteed to have a low geared D60 sitting up front. Every Cuck I've seen on ebay with a 3/4 front axle has been pillaged and not worth much. Plus to swap it out again...

It should have no issues priming the system with empty lines. I would double check the filter sock in the tank to make sure it isn't clogged. Since you are starting with a new truck, I would recommend changing out all flex lines with new rubber just to be sure and avoid the system bleeding down...

It should charge right out of the gate, the brushes may need to "break in" for full output but it shouldn't create any real issues. I think to help you out, we will need a full report of voltages at the charge wire in various engine speed and electrical load configurations.

Probably could do this for free if you found a burned up TH400 donor. I'd agree with the simplicity as you shouldn't even have to remove the valve body. One thing to inspect is if the notches are present on the rear planetary drum which is splined to the output shaft. I'm sure they are but I...

I'd love to do this mod and use 24v bulbs in my H4 conversion housings. Even up charging system drain.

10 bolts suck...period The only gain is that parts are relatively cheap and you can score entire housings for **** near free. Anything but moderate wheeling with something under 33's would be ok and that is if you stay out of rocks, high horsepower, low gearing, and shocking the driveline. If...

I'm just thinking that any 120v 15amp window shaker unit would have a hard time keeping a cab cool, especially one that is not thermally well sealed. That is pretty much any old truck. I think your best way is to use a vest or a traditional AC system driven off the engine. If not, do what...

Could replace the 24v motor with a small gas engine from say a lawn mower. That way you could pre cool the cab and run it without having the truck idling. Plus you gain all the benefits of a standalone AC system. I do like your setup though.

Not yet, has not been a priority. One day I'll swallow the $200 and solve that problem.

Are you running something 208v 3 phase in the shelter? Why not convert to single phase 120v so you have the ability to plug the shelter in to conventional residential or generator power? I required my M1031 to 120/240 with an L14-30 plug so my truck would be useable. Of course you may need it...

You may have a failing IP that has internal issue. Definitely check the IP for the correct voltage at the solenoid. Trying to run the engine or crank it with air in the system will ruin the prime on the high pressure injection lines. Try cracking them open while cranking with the IP powered up...