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See TB 11-6115-741-24

Maybe, maybe not The tests in the TM verify that flash circuit is working, the quad winding is outputting voltage to power the regulator and the voltage pot is in spec. If one or more of them is not functioning or missing it doesn't imply the regulator is good. It just gives a reason why the...

It's strange you get 37 volts at the convenience outlet but get nothing at he lugs with the contactor close & green light on. Whatever you get from the outlet should be present across L0 & L3. Might want to verify that the 37 volts is present across the regulator terminals 3 & 4. If you went...

Be sure to check the fuse mod fuse for continuity before doing the voltage regulator checks mentioned above.

I see the CR1 text but no diode symbol there in the 803 TM dated 1 September 1993. However when I looked at the TM for the 802 the CR1 text isn't there.

Item #10 below. Double click image to enlarge.

Used the TM -24 for the names, easier to read A1 AC VOLTAGE REGULATOR A2 MULTIFUNCTION INDICATOR A7 FREQUENCY TRANSDUCER A9 FLOAT SWITCH MODULE A10-A13 EMI FILTER B1 CRANKING MOTOR BT1 BATTERY 12V BT2 BATTERY 12V CB1 DC CONTROL POWER CIRCUIT...

Chris, I'd be happy to help out. :-D I'll generate the text file for everything on the left of the drawing and post it. Kurt

The batteries are connected in series so one lead of the charger needs to go to one battery and the other lead of the charger needs to go to the other battery. The positive lead of one of the batteries should be going to the starter. Connect the + lead of the charger to that battery's +...

Both fuses would blow out at under the same overload condition. The voltage rating of the fuse has to do with how much voltage potential the open fuse can withstand without flashing over and re-energizing the compromised load circuit. So the better fuse would be the 600V rated one.

MEP-802A fuel consumption 0.55 gal / hr MEP-803A fuel consumption 0.99 gal / hr Almost twice as much. In a pinch I'd want my fuel supply to last as long as possible. One problem with having a generator too large is wet stacking due to too light a load on it.

Almost all. The short circuit safety and the E-Stop still operate in Battle Short.

If you want to us a 12 volt charger to charge both batteries at the same time you MUST disconnect the batteries from all the generator cables. Then you can connect the two 12 volt batteries in "parallel". IE connect one battery's + to the other battery's +, then the one battery's - to the...

The link from Hard Head applies to issues and fix for the 805A/806A/815A/816A generators and NOT the 802/803. Here is my understanding with the issue with the 802/803.... Their A1 voltage regulators are powered by the quad winding. The quad winding provides AC power to a diode bridge inside...

The max resistance that I get on the voltage Pot on my 802 is 2.111 K ohms I suspect if you remove one of the Pot's wire from the voltage regulator terminal 1 or 2 the max resistance measured at the Pot will probably be ~5 K. The internal resistance of the voltage regulator is in parallel with...

Hint: They are almost at the end of the TM

Nice! I wish I was closer to Atlanta. You ought to set the voltage to 240 not 220. 240 is the actual voltage needed to feed your house.

You'll need to use toggle switch's with a higher current rating. Your individual 4,500 watt elements are going to draw 18.75 amps. You ought to select switch's that have a safety margin above the nominal current being drawn.

Can you post up a schematic of how you have the generator, the inverter/charger and the load panel are wired?

Ah... Once the engine is started you need to toggle the AC Circuit Interrupter switch to the CLOSED (up) position and then release it. This should cause the light directly above the switch to come on. This indicates the AC contactor has closed and power should now be available at the lugs...