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Did it output power OK previously or is this the first attempt to use it? Any Fault Lights? Do you have power to the convenience outlet? Does it correctly show voltage on the AC voltmeter? Is the Contactor Closed and the Contactor Light illuminated? With the reconnect switch in the 120/208...

To get to K1 you have to remove the top cover item 13 below. K1 is located behind the bulkhead that the voltage regulator, burden resistors etc are bolted to. Once item 13 is removed look over on the left behind where the resistors are mounted and you will find K1. The big black cube seen below.

Item 10 below is the float switch. The upper float is for the aux pump operation. The next components is A9 the Float Switch Module. Located here on wall by fuel tank. Schematic from TM for Aux Fuel Pump How to test the Float Switch Module How to test the Float Switch Replacement...

In the fuel tank is a dual float switch setup. The lower float is for the low fuel light, the upper float is for the Aux Fuel Pump. I suspect the upper float may be stuck in the down position and not rising up when the tank is nearly filled to shut off the pump.

Correct on both accounts

Here is the table from the TM that shows what the load meter and voltmeter read depending on the position of the AM-VM switch and the voltage reconnect switch. (Click on the image to expand it)

The switch to the left of the voltage regulator. Should look like this (my 802)

The same cap was cracked and leaking on my 802 when I first got it home. Instead of replacing it with a cheap rubber cap I used a very short piece of heater hose, slid it on, clamped it with a stainless clamp and then plugged it short round piece of metal stock and clamped that it place with...

I would assume so. Products are normally forward compatible. I just ran the compiler selecting both "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega2650" and "Arduino Mega ADK" It compiled just fine selecting either of the target devices. The UNO version has less I/O and less memory than the Mega's. Programming...

They all appear equally surface rusted. Might it just be due to humidity causing surface rust? The heads of the screws look the same as the ones on the terminal strip in my 1997 802.

kb3bf Sent you an email with a number of pictures, design info and my firmware that I'm beta testing. The programming is in C++. First time I used C++ was for this project. Pretty easy to pick up once. Lot's of good syntax reference help on the Auduino website. I commented the heck out of...

Remember you'll only be getting 208 volts and not 240 volts.

Yes it gets inserted from the outside. just slide it in until the shoulder of the wellnut is against the tank. You ought to by able to hold the shoulder of the wellnut until it expands a bit.

No need to disconnect the battery before connecting the charger.

Just a hunch... Looks like water may have gotten into the frequency meter. I just noticed the lens is rust colored around the meter movement and the face of the meter looks discolored. It's possible just the meter movement is rusted up and you may only need a new meter.

Take a look at TM 9-6115-642-24 It has the steps to test the transducer and the meter. Basically the transducer should put out 0.1 milliamps at 60 Hz or 0.2 milliamps at 65 Hz. The meter is a milliammeter that is 0.2 milliamps at full scale.

FYI - Links to items on auction sites aren't allowed to be posted on the forum.

That switch controls both the voltmeter and the ammeter. Daybreak has a new one for sale http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?153273-MEP-802-803-panel-components

Not sure the epoxy would hold well. Some people install Pop Nuts in those spots so they don't have to deal with getting a wrench into the tough spots.

I suppose you could. One normally wouldn't ever have to replace CR1. If you don't find the short then you may want to do this. The potential short that took out the original diode may reappear in the future and find yourself needing to replace CR1 again. Seems a bit odd the design uses a 3 amp...