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Open the document with Adobe reader. Scroll down to the schematic of interest. Zoom in on the schematic so it fills the screen. Select Print In the Pages to Print section select Current Page Bit further down click the down arrow for More Options Click Current View Near the bottom of the screen...

My 802 had the 3 ground rods in the clamps under the edge of the skid. The wire and couplers were in the door with the Aux Fuel hose. Here is a source someone posted a while back for the ground rod kit. No driver though. Just the rods, couplers and ground wire...

I suspect they are there to prevent the nuts from getting lost when they are fully unscrewed from the stud. A better picture... (click to zoom in)

Actually it's the "Fuse Mod" and yes you have it. :) You can tell by the fuse in mounted to the left of the Voltage Regulator. Looks like a nice unit.

Those wire items go on the output terminal lugs.

It's here as of now: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162301-MEP-831A-simple-Governor-setup-and-adjustment-instructions

As of now it can be found here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162301-MEP-831A-simple-Governor-setup-and-adjustment-instructions

Yup a bolt in mine.

I have seen a cap that would work at an autoparts store. To fix mine I just used a short length of heater hose slid over the port, secured it with a SS hose clamp. Then I plugged the other end of the heater hose with short piece of steel rod (part of a large bolt) and secured it in place with...

A few people, including me, had problems with leaks at the capped unused port. I found the rubber cap on mine had dried out and cracked causing a coolant leak there.

Inside...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?161305-MEP-803A-Door-Latch

I noticed in your second video on the first start attempt it failed to start. I think you released it from the START position too quickly. You need to keep it in START until it starts AND the oil pressure builds up. No harm in holding it in START for a few seconds longer if needed.

First open the file with Adobe Reader On the far left of the screen may be a tiny arrow about half way down the screen. This.. Click the arrow and you should get this (if it's not already visible) Now click the circled item above and you should get this. By clicking on the items above you...

It works for me.

Yes assuming the defective component(s) inside A1 can be identified. It just a basic printed wiring board with "thru hole" components soldered into it. Looks like this inside..

From your tests K1 seems to be operating properly. When you CLOSE the contactor K1 you get ~24 VAC at the lugs AND the convenience outlet with S1 in the RUN position. You get 120 VAC at the lugs and convenience outlet with S1 in the START position. Regulator operation.... assuming no wiring...

It's a "latching" circuit created by K1, S5 & K8. It has to do with the switch contacts in K1 terminals 11 & 12. After the engine starts and oil pressure is up K1 terminal X has 24 volts supplied to it. When you toggle S5 to CLOSE S5 terminals 5 & 6 connect momentarily connecting K1 terminal...

Does your unit have the ground bus bar installed across L0 and GND? If not then AC voltage measurements must done with respect to L0 unless you are doing a phase to phase voltage AC voltage measurement. When measuring the terminals of K18 you should only see ~ 24 volts DC or ~0 volts DC...

Which "terminals"? These are exactly the voltages expected at these points of K1 assuming they were with respect to L0. This looks like the contactor K1 was open during these measurements. That should be K1 closing. Measured 75 volts where? Yes I believe that would be the cranking relay.