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There are drain holes located under the battery trays. There may be more that I'm not aware of.

Relay K18 in there is for the glow plugs only. Relay K2 is the starter relay.

Nope. The dead crank switch should bypass that.

In you first post you indicated you replaced the crank relay. Was it the one that looks like al old fashioned car starter relay? Round can mounted on it's side with two large posts and 2 small posts?

I assume you got the 4 volts with the dead crank in the Crank position - right? If so go back to CR1 and measure each lead on it when you put the dead crank switch into the CRANK position and let me know the readings.

Gotcha... Seems odd you have +24 on both leads of CR1 but don't get 24 volts to diagnostic connector pin T when you have it the dead crank in the Crank position.

Hmmm... Do you have a copy of the schematic? If so are you familiar with how to follow it?

Sorry... Do you measure 24 volts on both leads of CR1?

Good. see post 18

If you get 24 volts there then probe both sides of CR1. It's located on a panel on the left side of the back wall behind the gauge panel. There should be 9 parts soldered to the terminals on it. It's the second component from the bottom. Measure the voltage on both sides of CR1. Should be 24...

Assuming you made contact with pin T then it's possible the CR1 diode is bad or missing. Carefully probe MT4 on the bottom right behind the gauge panel. Does it have ~24 volts on it?

Here is the pinout of the diagnostic connector. Doubleclick to enlarge. There are pins with upper case and lower case lettering. Be sure to use the upper case pins in most cases when probing. It can be found in TM 9-6115-641-24. If you look closely at your connector you should see tiny letters...

Correct. That item was no longer available and the OP asked for a moderator to delete the post.

Don't give up. You just have a simple electrical problem. Do you have a voltmeter or 24 volt test light handy? If so you may be able to narrow down the problem using the diagnostic connector. You may need to use a small nail to stick into the pins on the diagnostic connector to make contact...

I built a simple cart out of 4 pieces of 2x6, 1/4 bolts and 4 casters. Works great for wheeling it around my garage and outside when I need to use it. The 802 "locks" onto it and can't slide off. I used my open deck car trailer to bring the 802 home and built the dolly for it afterwards.

On the NH border in Pepperell.

Biz, I'm just north of you in Mass. Sometimes the flaps get stuck open because they are bent, were removed or were torn off by accident. Once that happens rain/snow can easily get into the muffler and run down into the cylinders. For me I picked up a 1997 with about 1,400 hrs on it. Had to do...

There is one available on the big auction site. $90

There's one available on the big auction site for $332.45

For the voltage meter issue exercise both the AM-VM switch AND the voltage reconnection switch inside the control box. Both control power sent to the voltmeter.