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I saw a post on g503 about it, but it didn't answer my question.

Anyone know if it is possible to put in a electronic 0-80 speedo in place of the standard mechanical 0-60 one without replacing the mechanical sender? I heard that you need to take replace the sender and wiring to use the newer 0-80 one. Aren't there adapters that exist ?

No, just compulsive to get this job done, and in the correct manner.

The cable should slide through the small u bracket? Because as far as I can see, it does not. Would there be another retaining clip in the smaller u bracket.

It does not look like the smaller bracket that connects to the cable is small enough to fit through the larger bracket, can this be disconnected as well?

So I think I completely understand the removal process except I have gotten stuck on trying to remove the e-brake line. I have taken off the pin holding the small U bracket to the lever, but I can't figure out how to disconnect the cable and the tube it's in from the larger bracket that is...

Nothing came up.

I was wondering what/where to get the material that is used on the interior of the up armored doors. I'm looking to insulate my x-doors and already have a base layer down. I believe the material is almost the same as the roof liner material in a slantback. The material itself I would...

Any differences? I see the civi gm 4l80 going for a lot cheaper than surplus military ones.

I assume that the water pump for the 6.2l can't be brought over to the 6.5td?

I've seen a couple listings on epay for 6.5TD and 4l80 combos and I know that the 4l80 (1997 and older) are no different than the military ones. Can the civilian 6.5td be placed directly into a humvee and use all the humvee electrical connections? If not, would it be worth the modifications to...

Yep, I already have a connection and breaker set up in the battery compartment for my own electronics and radio.

I went with the military TCM as I wanted to stay as close as I can to OEM parts.

Believe me, if I could take the body off, I would. I don't have the equipment or space to do something like that.

Aprox. 2700 rpm for me. Depends on slope, and I live in the mountains so I rarely get a flat surface. At 55 I'm anywhere between 2850 and 3000.

I didn't realize that it would be easier, I'm just thinking of how difficult it would be to trace and remove the wire and route a new one, but I wouldn't mind replacing the entire thing.

I was looking through the TM's and found the drive shaft parts list but it did not specify whether it was A1 or A2 shafts. Anyone know the NSNs for the longer front shaft and the shorter rear shaft for the 4l80? Also I found a A2 body harness (expensive) and I was wondering if it is possible to...

Is it possible to replace the t/c without removing the drive train? Are the bolts on the top of the adapter reachable when say the drive shafts have been disconnected?

Thats what I thought except the first thing I tried to do was shift into high lock range and drive home but I got the same loss of power to the wheels in high lock as in just high. Low was my last resort and the only thing that worked.

Update: Turns out the chain rattling noise was completely different than my old problem. I was driving back to my house when the rattling turned into a really loose rattling and suddenly there was no output of the transfer case. From what I can imagine is that the high range gear broken in...