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Interesting. My truck has the other one to your pair. Only my passenger door has one. Mine only had 2 screws in it, so I actually just bought more to match. Here's what I got (listed in my parts spreadsheet).
Door Latch Mechanism Retention Screws (M6x1.0 x 12mm, Phillips Cheese Head)
McMaster...
I've wondered the same thing, and can't think of any mechanical reason it couldn't be plugged all the time. However, I trust that the engineers that put it there did so for a reason, so I kept thinking.
What I came up with (purely logical speculation) was that it wasn't about a mechanical...
I went off topic briefly in some other thread recently and stated that there is a big difference between a forum (a place for discussions) and a knowledge base (a repository of information). I think that's where a lot of the disagreement comes from, and the two don't really mix well.
That's...
The damage in the test occurred in the on-road test, I believe. Reading the whole test is pretty interesting... what a cluster-frack. They pretty much destroy the driveline and a couple engines and transmissions within a couple thousand miles, and it doesn't even look like they set up any...
Thanks. Yeah, I understand the "know your vehicle" idea, but this gives me some context. Since I only have this one vehicle, and have never had another FMV or checked temps before, without this context I could be looking at problems and thinking they are normal. For example, I could be like...
In reading the studies, it talks about how they put new tight and balanced shafts on, and the truck promptly destroys them. I think it was within 100 miles of driving, and they are back to like 0.015" hinging. Then, the study points out that it didn't degrade much worse from there, regardless...
While I know that an IR thermometer checks temperatures, I've never used one to check the temperatures of anything you listed. Can you share what is normal (because I'm sure it's all normally "hot"), specific things you're looking for (e.g. "If I see one u-joint hotter than the other by about...
Can you elaborate? I thought that a major point of the FMTV program was to use as many commercial off the shelf components as possible. To me these seem like the easiest military trucks to fix WITHOUT a military support system, unless I'm missing something.
There are two versions of the fan and fan clutch. You can't mix the old and new.
My old version fan clutch went out recently and I swapped over to the new fan and clutch. I have the old fan, complete and working (for a 20 year part), if you're interested.
Otherwise, you want the new one piece...
It looks like that is the later (2003) study. Here's the first one (1998 ).
Check this out...
That doesn't sound like the exact bracket we currently have, so I'm assuming they changed it as a result of this study. Interesting how their first failure was the water pump. Next the starter...
Interesting. It sounds like all the trucks should have received the upgrades - I wonder if that's true. It's also clear that when things aren't right in the driveline, it can have big effects.
As an aside, I wonder what this looks like? "One of Mitchell's suggestions — a reinforced rear tail...
Another thing I forgot to mention is that all the safety/lock plates on my u-joints were missing! There are supposed to be these thin sheetmetal plates that you put on top of the u-joint cap before the bolts go in. After the bolts are in, you bend up the ears/tabs on the sheetmetal and it hold...
Officially declaring it a root cause will be difficult, because the cause-effect relationship is so indirect.
My front driveshaft had 0.055" runout, which is way more than the 0.005" spec. It was also out of balance, one spline twisted ("out of phase"), and the u-joints had wallowed out the...
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