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There are part numbers in the spreadsheet. Did you check those out?

Mine sounds a lot more clackity than that too, though it's always hard to tell with the sound in videos. The audio can be very deceptive compared to in person. What I want to know is why we can't have that nice long dipstick too? haha

That's probably a valve adjustment, which is a fairly simple (few hour) thing to do. I'm not sure if it's in the TMs (probably), but if not is in the CAT manuals.

On the back brakes (only), there are springs that press on the back of the air plungers. When you turn "off" the parking brake, you are actually turn ON air to hold the springs back out of the way. The brake pedal then actuates the brake air plungers. If you lose air, there is no air to hold...

Consider MDO (Medium Density Overlay). It's plywood on the inside, with MDF layers on the outside, infused with waterproof resin. Magical stuff.

The seals are cheap. The gaskets are like $5 each, there's an o-ring in there for a couple bucks, etc. The CAT part numbers are all in the TM.

Just so we're clear, there is nothing special about the paint. It's just spraypaint. But it's CAT yellow, which is why it costs $20. If you don't care about that particular color, use whatever you want to prevent rust.

CAT dealer.

The water pumps come from CAT unpainted (for whatever stupid reason). So if someone replaced it previously, and was lazy, you'll have that. The can of CAT yellow paint is like $20... I had to buy it to paint mine (and then wait an extra day to install it until the paint dried). Yes, M8 sounds...

I know you guys think you "aren't mathemeticians", but I'm going to help explain. CG is exactly what you need to know, and it's exactly what that 63%/37% split is that Coach just calculated. The info about the "centerline of your bed" is right on that data plate too! I know FMV owners are an...

Here's a better picture of the data plate from an A1.

Center of gravity is the "balance point". That's why I kept mentioning it. It's exactly what you were looking for, no calculations needed.

The diagram is fairly unreadable, but if you look closely there is an icon in the middle of the truck that is a circle with two opposing quadrants colored white. That's the center of gravity symbol. So if you can get a good look at a real data plate, it looks like it has actual dimensions...

He's basically taking the picture facing forward, resting his hands on the radiator (which is the black thing at the bottom of the picture). The vent is into the bottom of the heater box on the dash, and the hoses on the left side are the heater hoses going into the heater box. The cab is...

Pictures that I have seen of the data plate from the passenger door show that it has dimensions, location of the center of gravity, and a bunch of other information. (Again, my truck is missing the plate, so I've never seen one in person.)

Ok, yes, I have that vent (obviously). Of interest to you though, my truck has a rubber gasket around the top of that area, attached to that piece of flange with the holes in it in your picture (near that vent).

Not specifically (yet, anyway), but the lumber I have could be used for that too. It's something I've thought about, but not acted on yet.

I've wondered the same thing, but I haven't tested it. My truck is missing the data plate from the passenger door, but the plate has information about the theoretical center of gravity, that you could use to calculate the load on each axle. (And I've been looking to get a data plate for mine...

The backward facing part of my alternator mount had a cup worn in it from the roll pin / spacer on the rear ear of the alternator. I had it machined flat again, and I put a washer in between the alternator mount and the ear of the alternator to take up the space (not a big deal, since the roll...

Sounds like great results. I look forward to trying it myself. None of my zerks were bad either - I took them all off and tested them, and each flowed grease. So it's the bolts and bushings that are the problem, at least for you and me.