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Glad you say this. I bought a bunch from Gimpy last GA-Rally. Then, due to endless export/import issues, it took forever to finally get them (+ all my stuff - 4 FCL !) into this country, not too long ago. I haven't had the time since, to closer inspect them. G.

Calm down Welldigger; that was just a little test he made to see who was paying attention today...:p G.

This...? G.

That part goes seated inside the outlet plug (pic below). Possibly to help keep the return springs centered in the cylinder bore; prevent the coils from shifting to one side and touching the cylinder wall when fully compressed. Not a crucial part IMO and it seems like some of the...

My two cents: Pins are supposed to be Ø 1" steel, Grade 5 or better. So each one of them has an estimated shear strength of 56.000 pounds - according to more than one source/manufacturer. But even if someone decided to use pins made of the lowest, cheapest grade steel (say half that value) and...

I like your idea, Tom! [thumbzup] Might want to steal it one day, to do the same, but with a (mechanical)10K-Garwood, fitted to a Deuce. G.

Yes, you can buy a new 4th-5th synchro from any of the usual vendors. You don't have to remove the whole transmission, to replace that synchro. G.

TM 9-2520-246-34 and TM 9-2520-246-34P G.

Who said that Russian- and American-made green steel doesn't combine well...? See pics, attached below... Some parts look familiar, don't they? This particular vehicle has seen better days, obviously. I remember well when the first batch of these URAL trucks maybe 30 of them were just...

Glad to help. Regarding your question in post #9: yes, I would simply connect the small wire on the ALT (= exciter wire) to your "distributor"-wire, terminal "D" on the MS. And no, there is no way you could fry any of those wires/ circuits. It's all relatively low Amps, there. G.

Attached picture showing list of wire numbers (on factory crimped-on aluminum tabs). In our M35A2 Wiring Schematic everything coincides except for position "F" which is marked as 167 FLASHER INPUT; "G" as 160-161 TURN INPUT; AND "H" as 19A FLASHER OUTPUT. Still clear enough, I guess. G.

It's not a std. Borg Warner T-98 and it's definitely not a NP420! Very likely the Canadian ACME-made T-98, as Doghead said. This thread has many pics and info about it, and to me it looks identical to the one in question. G.

May I ask, where did you find info to support that statement? Unless I have missed it, we are still waiting for someone to actually take a stamped #11641736-rocker arm and compare it to the most common #10899107-rocker arm, which everyone seems to have. It sure would be interesting to confirm...

What usually fails (first) has been shown in this post... (The bearings themselves were still in acceptable condition...) And here is why this part has failed... once. G.

Welcome to SS. I see this is your first post. A list of everyone who would eventually have some left-over spare parts would be too long -and boring. If you are looking for specific parts for your M105, better post a want-ad in our classifieds, or contact any of the popular vendors advertising...

:ditto: to what Rustystud and Welldigger said. The spider(cross) and -gears appear to be a weak link in these diffs. I never broke one of mine but sold quite a few replacement sets to customers, here. G.

Looks very clean. Congrats! G.

No issues here. Not today at least... And when it's like that, it's usually not the site.... (see post #4) :-) G.

Somewhere I think I have posted about a "trick", to be able to save/re-use these very nicely made old bushings... All you need is a beer can (yes, save the empty can, as material...) and a reamer, made to match the existing (measured!) kingpin diameter- and then some patience, of course...

See wear limits, TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1, 10-17.