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Simple, you must read the TMs.... all of them!:p See your answer here: TM9-1819AC, fig. 45. Best, G.

Ah.. now I know what you mean: yes every harness connector can be opened and you can easily add (solder) a wire to any of the unused pins. Same with the light switch connector: just open it and add the missing wire at "J". Lubricate the rubber parts with dielectric grease before applying too...

Half a page?? You have that wiring schematic (PDF-file) downloaded to your PC, don't you? "Opening" as in disassembling? I understand that you want to do the splicing inside the connector, under the boot, right behind the metal pin or receptacle, crimped to the wire? It is possible yes...

Wire #22 runs from L.SW-"C" to TS.SW-"D", only! Then #160 connects L.SW "J" with TS.SW "G". Flasher input is #167 and connects "F" with "B" on the flasher unit. G.

I'm not so sure about the accuracy of that list... The O-Rings for regular HEMTT 2pc wheels at least are not Ø 3/16"! More like Ø 5/16". Maybe its a typo? G.

... which makes me want to study that TM and see how it's actually designed to work: power steering- AND power brake booster - AND the winch; all on the same pump!? G.

Ty, I think you are getting close now... Normally, with a PS-system - and not steering- the pump's full capacity can flow almost unrestricted through the control valve body and back to the reservoir. On the other hand, when steering hard all the way against the knuckle stops the valves are...

No problem, you can use a Multifuel tank. See the differences, here... It just needs a custom-made cover, where the fuel pick-up & vent goes. Or use an old MF in-tank pump, disabled and modified to work just as a fuel pick-up. Yes. G.

Not the starter, it's the generator that is on the driver's side. The A2-harness would work. But then you may have to change some of the connectors to the Douglas-style. Not a big deal, though. Sorry, I just re-read post #1: he said he got a new gasser harness, included! G.

I guess, not necessary... ;) Look again: those rubber bumpers are placed almost too high up on the tailgate, to even hit the end panel at the lowest edge? G.

Post a few pics of them and I will tell you what the backspacing is, +/- 1/4". FMTV-wheels aren't expensive, and re-centering them is not such a big deal... So I would say, better to get new wheels made, with adequate backspacing, than adding spacers - anytime! G.

Couldn't agree more...! Do you happen to know if that transmission was just replaced with a stock one, or eventually changed out to something stronger? Thanks for sharing your HET-experience! G.

Wait a minute: why Ø 5/8"? All the studs I have seen so far are 9/16" in diameter. I just checked the NAPA-site: you probably need the TWD AX1014. What left me wondering is their specified height of only 3/8". From what I recall ours are taller than that. Let me see if I can find any loose, to...

Did you see this thread - before trying...? FWIW, they are also called "Drive Flange Wedge". Apparently Dorman makes, or has them. If you wanted to order online, here is one possible source... G.

I think that PRV at the top of the secondary is mainly a safety backup, in case the regulator on the transfer pump got stuck closed, to protect the system Also to avoid possible pressure build-up between that pump and the FDC, or- if by-passed- directly the HH, after engine shutdown. Certainly...

Take a quick look here, on page 13. G.

You are welcome. Now, what you owe to this group is post up some good photos of the build process and finished product! ... Just don't forget it - or we will get you permanently banned...!:p G.

Forged (of course!) G.

I would contact member TaylorTradingCo (Derek). G.

You are lucky: I just found one M1008-brushguard that I knew I had laying around somewhere, for years. You will have all measurements put in a drawing to scale, tomorrow. Plan on buying flatstock: 1-5/8" x 1/4", about 7.10m; 1-1/8" x 1/4", about 2.10m; 2-1/4" x 1/4", about 0.80m. Also 1...