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I have seen worse... Definitely not all new parts, there. It also seems that the dogs are engaging only halfway? G.

No, I meant the pump gears, not the driven gear.

Clint, when I first read your post it crossed my mind: broken input shaft, maybe... But I wouldn't say this is a common failure, at least never heard of such in all these years. It only happened to that particular engine because obviously it had never ever been turned over (not an eight of a...

That's probably when you became infected...!? At least you found the best place to hang out with so many others, all sharing more or less the same "disease": it's called "Green Iron Fever" :smile: Welcome to Steelsoldiers! G.

:ditto: Hank, did you inspect the dogs (=teeth) on the synchronizer assy. and HI-range gear? See this post... If that really was a rebuilt unit they should have put a new synchronizer in there, at least. Eventually also replace both gears. G.

Stock shocks all do that; they are not gas-filled. G.

Correct, after changing the final fuel filter you don't want any air trapped there and eventually getting into the IP. I would place that screw where the arrow is. G.

Very nice setup! Just don't forget the bleeder screw on top of the secondary FF. I think this is important to have. 2cents G.

Deuce T-Case shift shaft seal: Shaft diameter:1.00” Housing bore: 1.50” Housing depht: 0.40”: Seal numbers: C/R-SKF: #9876 or #9878 Timken: #471224 or #470553 Clark: TB2 1.000-1.500-0.312 G.

I'm 99% sure that the new-style assembly would work there, with no modifications. G.

I just checked the old TM9-1819AC, which covers exactly that model winch (part 5 of 6). Everything is clearly explained there... (below, attached) Hainebd: where do you see that "thin hex nut" you are talking about? G.

The balance ?? We are talking about the drum-lock -bolt or -plunger assemby, right? Thin hex?? Besides that slotted bolt part #7538725 (item #3 in post 7), there is nothing else to hold that assy. in place. Not on every 10K-Garwood I have worked on. TM are great ?? Well, yes, most are... But...

It should come out without too much effort. Maybe some coils of a corroded spring are still holding it? This is how the whole assembly looks like... And here are the dimensions of that bolt, if you want to make a new one... G.

Yes, that one; or Loctite 587 RTV. Actually any good silicone sealant will work OK, but before covering the bolt threads they need to be dry and clean! Out of those 6 bolt holes only two (or maybe three, I forgot) are through-holes and need to be sealed well. Eventually screw the (sealed)bolt...

You are new here and may have overlooked our TM section...?? Start here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2520-246-34.pdf and http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2520-246-34P.pdf We also want everyone to post their needs (WTB-ads) in our classified ad section. I'm sure you...

NO! Not if you ever plan to re-use them. G.

That has happened before. Read here... People just don't realize what the function is for that hole! G.

No problem, Sir!:smile: And I really thought about you when I said "guinea pig"... because I know too well how many miles you drive! Just let me update that drawing, so it has all the measurements- and in inches if you prefer? G.

I had already posted some about this modification in another thread but then decided to better start a new one... Above are some of the posts about this same subject, moved over from that other thread. Fact is, the old design, 7/8 inch-long, RH-threaded/grooved section inside our front bearing...

You don't really need someone else answering that, or...??:? Pull that bearing/bushing back out and enlarge the ID until you get a real loose fit, when tried outside the crank, on the input shaft. We certainly don't want any interference there, between bushing and input shaft, once all was...