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Hurry you are wasting time with all this. Fix it before everything goes bad. And BTW you don't really want to know how I feel about Chinese products.

Warthog I am having trouble understanding those diagrams. I am not very good at reading those, but 2 months ago I did the cluster repair I bent all wings cleaned with sandpaper, checked all bulbs and contacts so I am 99.9% its not a connection in the cluster. Here is what I found when I went...

looks fine to me. JK

Its just regular auto body seam seal. Mine was white in color but I is paintable. Go over all of your welds with it.

OK did some more researching and found out some stuff I had already known but I'll repeat it for everyone else. every light should flash when you try to start your truck. that tells you if it is working correctly. So on the Low coolant sensor it says that you take off the ground and light...

3 bolts is for a gas job 6 bolts for a diesel. You never know what some people do before you.

have you pulled of the inspection cover? you should count the bolts in the TC. Other than that everything you mentioned above sounds right.

Thanks guys I checked every bulb when I was last in the cluster and cleaned everything, so that is definitely not the problem. I am going to replace both sensors and see what happens. If I was to take the time to diagnose would I be looking for 12v or Ohms at these sending units?

If your GP "system" is stock and working correctly do exactly what the light says. They are pretty accurate unless you blow you GP card. So everything sounds fine to me

Anyone?

UPDATE ON 2ND PAGE I'm guessing that if the lights ( low coolant and High temp) do not flash when you turn the key they are defective and need to be replaced with new switches right? I already checked the contacts and did a search and only found info on low coolant, but not High temp. I need...

check this thread out http://www.steelsoldiers.com/conversations/39015-cucv-w-winch-m51-m1114-m1028-picture-party-today-tennessee.html

its 24 volts if it goes positive to negative. keep it 24v. Keep reading the threads you will learn so much. I would change all of the fluids and replace parts as necessary.

how much weight was that?

If it was me I would not put a plow on it. By the sounds of it, yours sounds too nice. Maybe its just me but I treat my trucks like they are Gold. Anyway if you do put a plow on it I would go either Boss or fisher. I have a boss and I love it. The only thing I do not like about it is the plow...

All 3 of my trucks do this I think its because they are not Syncronized. I shut of the truck then shift out of 4lo. then start it back up. Its annoying but its easier on the drivetrain.

what year was the cucv 2? Do you have the link? I can't believe some of the prices these things are going for.

you stole that thing.

stolen from pirate GM 1977-87 K30 1 ton 4wd 1984-88 CUCV 1988-91.5 V30 All GM / Chevy versions were passenger side differential, regular rotation (low pinion) gears, disc brakes, 35 spline inners, 30 spline outers, internal style hubs, and kingpin knuckles.

I hate that both of my trucks are like that.