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Correct. The Start circuit is "smart" and will disengage the starter after it starts even though you are holding the switch in the Start position. No harm will come if you hold the switch in start for a 5 seconds or longer. You need to hold it in Start for the oil pressure to build and the...

Possibly you released the switch too early? It will immediately shut down due to lack of adequate oil pressure build up if released prematurely. Upon starting you have to hold S1 in the START position until it comes up to speed and the oil pressure has come up. Then release the switch. My...

1 & 2. You ought to be able to do the repair with the panel in the genset. Just a bit difficult to access it via the drop down panel opening. Might be easier to remove the top cover for better access to it. CR1 is soldered to the standoffs. Instead of soldering a new on in right away you...

Just be sure the two chargers negative outputs aren't tied to the chargers ground. I made that mistake once aua

Guy, I only worked for Raytheon in Massachusetts. Did 35 years there doing design, development and field support until I retired last year. No offense taken. :beer: Just wanted to give a little perspective from the supplier side.

:roll: I worked my career at Raytheon and dealing with those returned chassis and circuit cards was part of my job. :-? Spent many years designing and developing the test equipment used to test those assemblies in both production and to test the ones that came back from the field. True...

Two possibilities come to mind. 1) Could be the frequency transducer or the frequency meter is bad. Wiring could be an issue too. 2) You are running the 803 at a speed that is less than 55 hertz The voltage adjust will not change the frequency, only adjusting the engine speed will. You ought...

PM'd you for a couple of them. Kurt

A couple of manuals for the MEP-16C http://manuals.chudov.com/Military-Generators/MEP-016C/

I get my pop nuts from a "good" hardware store. One of those places that carry's just about everything. Never seen them in Lowes or HD around here.

From TM 6115-585-12

Did you check for AC voltage across pins 1 & 3 of the regulator? You can measure the same points at pins F & J on the Diagnostic connector instead.

It would appear the design is to activate the pre-heat during cranking. I assume the intent is to have the heaters remain activated after you manually do a pre-heat and go to start the engine. Keeps the heaters from cooling while you are cranking the engine during a cold weather start.

Your mig welder would only put a sporadic load on it. Got any 110 or 240 volt space heaters available?

Odd... In my copy of the TB the fuse mod is in 5.1. it's dated 15 May 2009 Here is the parts list from the TB with NSN numbers.

I got both of mine on flea-bay a couple of years ago. I just checked and the vendor I got my last one from is no longer a flea-bay seller. According to my notes the 88-22829 and the 75902LV are metal shaft versions. I believe the 88-21160, CHR10-C57400, CHR10-C57400EF are the plastic shaft...

Yes - I had to. The shaft was already broken off when I go it from GLA. Here it is installed

I've been looking for you and others for a source for the 75902LV and the 88-22829. So far nothing...:sad: If I stumble upon something I'll post it up. There is a plastic version for sale on this forum...

Sounds like you may have scored a pretty good one. The Oil Pressure, Temp and Fuel gauges tend to stay where they were when the unit was last shutdown. They'll jump into position when you turn S1 to the Prime/Run position before starting. Looks like yours is missing the "Fuse Mod". Might...

In theory you can. First you'd need to drain the tank. Then you'd need to disconnect the hose and unscrew fittings from the well nut. Unscrewing the fitting from the well nut should allow it to collapse back to near it's original shape. Once the fitting is removed you should be able to slide...