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GMG has the A3816 well nut https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep802a-mep803a-fuel-tank-well-nut-a3816/ Also see post#74 here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?143876-MEP-802A-fuel-tank-removal/page8&highlight=A3816

Yes - I kept S14 in my 802. The only modification to the 802 from it's original wired configuration was to cut the wire between S5-3 and S7 and connected the two leads to the Normally Close contacts of a relay. This was done so that my autostart system could automatically open the 802's...

I suppose so provided that the autostart system used performs all the functions of S14.

kb3bf, No I didn't need to buy one. Fortunately my 802 was complete except for S1. The info I posted was info I gleaned from a post a few years back and kept a copy of it for reference. The MEP-802A doesn't have a "S12". Did you mean S1? With the remote start setup I came up with S1 is not...

Here is a source for K14 I found in my records. Not sure if you tried it yet. Quantum Controls Chanhassen , MN 1-952-361-3694 Ask for Wendy Price is 75 dollars each

I suspect the problem here is dirty contacts in the AM-VM switch. Part of it's function is to connect the "burden" resistors to the output current transformer. If the contacts are dirty they will cause added resistance in the burden resistor circuit. The short story is that the dirty contacts...

If you are worried about the voltage regulator then I'd suggest you totally disconnect it. That way you can work on getting the engine started and running without risking the regulator. Just be sure the label all the wire taken off the regulator and tape them up so they can't short against anything.

The #1820 bulbs arrived today. Before adding the lights to the Fuel Level, Coolant Temp & Oil Pressure gauges. Picture taken in a partially lit garage. Installed the bulbs & wired the sockets up to the nearby panel light DS3. (Ignore the other small black wires with the blue "flags" on...

The bulbs I ordered are regular incandescent bulbs. They are #1820 bulbs, 28 volt, 2.8 watts. It's a box of 10 from Amazon.com $6.12. Hopefully they are the right ones. Should know by tomorrow...

My 1997 802A gauges have openings for light sockets. Here's one of my gauges with the light socket opening. The opening is 5/8". Did some research and found the Dorman 85805 socket is a match for the gauge opening. Got them from Rockauto.com for $1.63 each Fit's perfectly in the gauge...

To be honest I haven't gotten back to it. Let's just say life here has been :cookoo: hectic here. Not conducive to making a lot of racket running the genset just outside the house. Probably June 1st before I get back to seriously working on the project.

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Terminals 2,4,6,8 in S1 should have ~+24 volts on them. They are all tied together. You'll need to have the Emergency Off button in the out position, the Dead Crank Switch in the NORMAL position and CB1 closed to enable +24 to get to the S1 Master switch. The path is: Battery +24 ---> Dead...

Here is the continuity map. (Ignore the double images. They are both the same) You can also search for a 75902LV switch. It's not plastic and is a good rugged drop in replacement for the original switch. Got mine a couple of years ago on the big auction site for ~$40

Correct :-)

It's not the AM/VM switch that sets the 803 to 3 phase mode. You need to set the output voltage phase selector switch that's on the back wall inside the meter/relay compartment. Gotta drop the meter panel open to get to it.

See page 2-2 in TM 9-6115-642-10 for terminals used in 3 phase. Also see the electrical diagram on page almost at the end of TM 9-6115-642-24. It's F0-1 Electrical Schematic and shows L0

Yes. 4 Lugs. In 3 phase L1, L2, L3 are the 3 phase outputs and L0 is the Neutral

For safety I'd think you'd want the L14-30R on the end of the 10/4 cord from the genset and the barn connector should be a L14-30P. Wouldn't want to have HOT prongs on the cord from the genset.

The big auction site by searching the NSN #.