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he wants the hydraulics for other stuff the other option is use an engine mounted hydraulic pump like the a-3 duce uses

I think a 300 6 is too much engine way too tall and too long you would be better served with a 225 slant 6 or something like a 4 liter v6 anything much longer will require firewall modifications and take up valuable realestate in an already cramped cab

its actually only in neutral, i'm not Shure what is need for a wec 2 Allison to run a pto, most autos need to have a pto mode triggered to raise the line pressure and lock up the torque converter. we run pd fuel pumps off our 3000 series allisons with nothing more than a hot shift I would...

that's good in civilization there are still plenty of 53's. the na 71 seems to be king here they are in loader,s boats, belly scrapers, and haul trucks, along with tractor trailer units. last time I went looking for a 53 blower drive or manifold for a 6v 53 it had to be imported from the lower...

horse power wise the 6v53 is about the same as a commercial cummins 6 b they aren't horse power or torque kings and as stated noisy both tend to live a pretty long life. just have a good tune up done like adjusting the overhead, new injectors and a governor adjustment and it will start quick and...

I once pushed a baby ranger out of the way with one after it hit me head on, did have to repair the hood afterward ,but I did drive it back to the motor pool. the ranger owner wasn't so lucky

its likely in the governor on top the air compressor had one do that to me last weekend on an old peterbuilt as I was 20 miles out of town. I fixed it with penetrating oil and a little cleaning. airbrake systems normally use a special grease, which is why alcohol is not a good idea unless it is...

yes I agree on the bed liner there are other products one can spray on with out the texture that do the same thing

when re packing the wheel bearings remove the spindle there is a seal kit and a bearing there that gets missed on a service. water usually weeps in through that bearing, down the inside of the spindle, into the locking hub until its full, than into the outer bearing. don't forget to replace the...

with out the turn signal both brake lights working you will know the wiring and bulbs are working. the signal will remove the brake light power and close contacts, that will draw power off the flasher, causing the signal to blink while allowing the brake light to operate on the side you are...

I will have to go look but I think I know where there is another one of hose sitting even has the doors

I have seen this before try the turn signal switch there is a separate set of contacts for they rear signals and front signals a good quick test for the wiring is do you have brake lights as the signals and brake light share the same circuit to the rear

the plunger is an electromagnetic switch that is sealed from the fuel system fuel additive wont help if the switch is doing its job and it still doesn't shut down I would be suspect of rack adjustments.

your starter may be dragging and sucking power from the shut down solenoid I have seen this with ford idi 7.3's. if it starts with a quick shot of artificial fuel like butane or starting fluid you will know the starter is drawing too much from the battery's and not energizing the solenoid

I had to do a rear frame extension and hook up the commercial lights that came with my service body. I did what one previous poster suggested and used a test light to figure out what circuit did what and than hooked up my body lights to make me dot compliant.

the aviation world calls them adell clamps

I've briefly looked at the tm I haven't seen it yet if so I would have to run with pins in all the time. it makes sense to run with pins out so things can flex . as stated grease cab supports and latch and wash out brakes after mud running. that's why they are open back. lastly have fun mine...

I would use a 4 terminal cole hersy switch or a cat switch for lots of years of service the cheep switches that napa and corquest sell just don't seem to stand up

I seem to remember the fan clutch defaults to locked up with no air on it. am I wrong?

look at the alternator mounting bracket those were prone to breaking one or all three bolts holding it on along with the rear curley q bracket between the rear lower pivot piviot point and the exhaust header also loosen up the alternator check the pulley and rotor for noise while the belts are loose