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The swirl factor is different. It is how the head is cast for the way the air is swirled in the intake cavity. ASFIK the injector cavity is the same. As for the cam, usually all are the same, look at the number on the nose of the cam. if they are the same no issue, if the numbers are different...

The only check valve is the pump. You can drop a line into a clean bucket of fuel and go directly to the pump. if it starts better and will restart easily after shut down, your issue is somewhere in the lines up to the pump or in the tank.

The difference between gen set, pumps, industrial, pistons, turbo and exhaust manifold and pump/gears and head. If the stationary engine has an MW pump, gtg, just install your stuff when you do the re block. If it is later, and yes Virginia, late blocks are backwards compatible, it will most...

That thing is junk, I wouldn't waste my time with it, first time it gets a little heat in it you will have coolant in the oil. Put it on a shelf until you can do things correctlt

Cummins has no thread repair kits. My advice is to find a local guy/company that cuts counter bores, cam bushing repair, cylinder boring on HD engines and see if they have a way of repairing the block. I should also re state something. The cracking between liners was common, not so much the...

Cummins sells them, e-bay..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Compressor-Unloader-Repair-Kit-for-Holset-SS296-220036-Ref-Cummins-3801733-/252750630604?hash=item3ad91c8ecc:g:gucAAOSwQJhUi2Xn&vxp=mtr

Get a gauge first and see what the low pressure is doing when the engine acts up

Not a common issue to break the tabs, someone probably assembled it incorrectly. Buy a kit and the plunger and reassemble it, it will be WAY easier to do that than do a complete compressor unless you have the wrenches to take the compressor off....it is a PITA even for experienced Cummins guys.

That was a common issue with early C's. I can't get on QSOL right now, but, IIRC, there is a head bolt repair sleeve available. Putting a liner in it will not fix anything, it will continue to have a coolant leak. Here is a universal puller...

And, you cannot guess or just throw parts at things and expect to make things work. You need to troubleshoot things.

Great, glad things were a simple fix and nothing was torn down causing more issues! The hard top will be gravy!

Any progress on this?

Sorry, been a baaad weekend. The crank nose is tapered. You could TRY and use a puller, but if you have ever removed something from a tapered shaft that has been torqued on, you will know that the pressed on part WILL come flying off. Do not be in it's path. When installing, you need to use...

I looked for a bit but can't find one. I'll keep looking. IIRC, the crank nose is tapered, it comes off with a good pop and I THINK it needs to be lapped when installed. Like I said, i'll keep looking, I know it is around here somewhere....

I'll look and see if I have a book for it and scan the image of the tools. I might have a seal tool.

Are you referring to the little bit poking out past the trunion? If so, all that is the bushing on the front cover. The trunion is the front mount, there should be rubber between the cover and the mount. It looks in tact and normal. Getting the adapter off is a mofo. Did you wash it first...

`How do you know the compressor wheel and injectors need replacement?

WOT works faster, yes you should fill the system with the lift pump primer, but no need to crack lines.

Bosch P/MW/A pumps do not need bleeding, they will prime just fine w/o cracking lines, removing plugs, etc. Put the throttle off idle and crank it.

And for the helluv it, the FSOV measurements,