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Since you have a flatbed and probably want to retain a low COG with the factory overload leafs, I would recommend stock suspension with zero rates up front to push the axle forward, saw all the front edge of the fender, and go crossover steering.

The replacements have clips on the inside of the joint cap. Use heat and a hammer, impacts to the joint work best. DO NOT use a press. You will end up bending the ears or busting the shaft. I have a very fancy snap-on ujoint press...never used it. Never something I recommend but a BFH and some...

Sorry to hear about your troubles...don't lose faith yet. Before attempting to DD this truck, you need to spend some quality time. Get the GP system operating correctly, replace the GP's with AC60g's, replace all the fuel lines along with the filter (preferably upgrade to a spin on). Don't jump...

Do not jump to any conclusions without verifying oil pressure with a test gauge like it was suggested. Verify correct oil level, viscosity, pressure switch integrity, idle speed, etc before going further. Many non-electronic dashes suffer this problem because the warning lamp comes on at such a...

Out of the box thinking and winch recovery do not go hand in hand. Another major downside to your plan is when you need to use a block. You will need one of those shackles for the winch cable. Plus what happens when you are done with the pull? The winch will need to be removed. Pretty...

It seems like anything except the real high end stuff is all made in China and the same components. Even the Warn VR's look like lower end clones. Not saying that is bad, a $300 Smittybilt winch is pretty BA for what it is. I'd rather have one than not. The suck part is trying to take...

The little black things in the breaker panel...

Welcome to SS! I still have my M1031 and even though I do not have it listed or actively trying to sell it, "everything is for sale at the right price" :) If you search through my threads, you can see the build and mods done. It's pretty mint with only 9k miles. I'd probably list it for around...

I personally like Detroits on a light weight truck like a Yota or Jeep. Going down the road in a straight line minding your own business. Then BAM!!! The Detroit skips a tooth and almost sends you into oncoming traffic. "Oh Hello...I'm a Detroit...just reminding you that I'm back here"...

The factory CUCV heater is 12v so if you buy the 12v FM100 heater it is plug and play...as long as you follow Recovery's directions. I bought the 24v flavor so I used the 12v stock feed to trigger a relay which takes power off the 24v bus. Confused :)

He ruined it! No CUCV should ever be faced with an electronic throttle pedal or have to drink petrol... All things aside that is a cool engine. They didn't mention it but I think they hooked it to the original TH400. What a waste, should have matched to a 4L80E or one of those "new fancy" 6...

Very common for a Detroit locker to just bang randomly...feels like rearend just exploded. I would pull the cover for an inspection and torque the carrier bolts. If no chunks show up, run it!

http://youtu.be/HYQSTjyTkzI

I believe an SS member posted a video on youtube. Tcase in neutral, pull PTO lever out (keep pressure on it as sometimes it wont fully engage until trans goes in gear), transmission in D range, turn governor switch on

I have a Fill Rite 15 gpm pump that has a hose and nozzle. http://www.fillrite.com/ProductCatalog/2273.pdf Plan is to mount it up high in the middle locker on the passenger side. I will fab a mount for the 2" NPT base. I will extend the feed tube down the locker and mount that through the base...

I chose this method opposed to plumbing it into my existing system because someone on here told me the 6 way valve needed to do the job is expensive and a leaky piece of junk. I also like the idea that I can put off road diesel, kero, etc. into it without getting into trouble. I also can add...

It has been a few months since I have touched this dual fuel tank project. I ended up selling my house, moving out of the school (previous job), packing up into storage, and starting a completely new line of work. Fuel tanks not really part of the picture. I did have some spare time over the...

I would avoid an M1009 for any kind of serious duty just because you really should upgrade to 1 tons for much needed reliability right off the bat. You also are dealing with a weaker frame and shorter wheelbase which doesn't suit a workhorse at all. Unless you are doing some real technical...

Unless you plan on getting it stuck in frame deep mud on a regular basis, the 9000 lb. is enough. If you need more, use a block. Of course you do run out of cable but that is a different story! When I say 9000 lb. that is a good model. Not a MM or equivalent. Those make pull ratings with...

Do a quick precheck for play in anything else like balljoints and bearings. If you have any freeplay, the alignment check will be useless. If it's a wheelbearing, snug it up and go. You can worry about servicing them later just get rid of the play.