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I plan on taking the ground control for the GP solenoid at the controller card and splicing in a switch. I am going to use one with a momentary on, off, and on position. This will give me GP bypass manual control, no GP's, and normal modes. That way you can keep the key on without the GP's on.

Just the axles are worth it. The rest is all gravy!!! Good score!

I wasn't aware of the fluid already having additives in it. The BG product I used had seperate bottles of detergents and additives. I would be very cautious with some off branded universal magic ATF.

You owe me a beer! Although it sounds like you had way to much fun cleaning the rod...pun intended. Glad you got the ol' TH400 squared away. Have to live the old iron...so simple to fix.

Flushing with fresh fluid will not break up anything inside the trans. It is the heavy detergent the dealer sells as a 'flush' will do the damage you describe. I've performed many flushes on old rigs and even personal cars without ill effect if A) the correct fluid is used B) no detergents...

I agree, some type of resolution would have helped out the people searching these types of threads. There was an awful lot of "what not to do" in this scenario. No one should be burning out starters trying to bleed fuel systems. Even with the stock pump and box filter, you should not need any...

How do you have no fuel at the injectors but yet it runs fine? If this is an intermittent no start regardless of temperature and time I would assume you have an IP solenoid starting to fail.

I don't think flushing the trans with fresh Dexron III will hurt it. Just swapping fluids out. I would ABSOLUTELY stay away from flushing it and having a shop sell you on the heavy cleaning detergents and additives. Just tell the shop only ATF goes in...keep the magic in bottle potions for...

Looks like you are having way too much fun!

Why wait when you can watch the Suburban go across the river...I love the internet :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bQQIy5TKZE&list=PLEF6FC8B925024280

Could be a governor sticking like it's spinning up. May be a stuck 1-2 shift valve in the valve body. I would highly recommend running through a trouble shooting chart. One, triple check the fluid level. I would invest in a set of pressure gauges to see what your governor and throttle pressures...

Looks awesome...makes me want to build one! As far as the overheating or running hot goes, check to make sure your mechanical fan shroud is all there. Check to see if the mechanical clutch is working too when it heats up. A little bit of slippage will be bad with hot days and A/C heat load...

I remember my vocational instructor showing me this almost 15 years ago. Back then it was very old but it still remains a classic I use in class...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbVY5teBzlg

Rebuilding an IP is no different from doing an engine or transmission. The big difference is doing it right. Sure anyone can stuff clutches in an automatic slushbox or new bearings in an engine block but it takes lots of specialized equipment to do it right, correct for wear, and dial in...

Maybe if you park your M1008 behind the business side of a turbine aircraft...the hood may fly open then :) Congrats on your purchase! Time to get comfy with the service manuals, a grease gun, and a voltmeter.

I'm sending you my left kidney...I will expect reasonable shipping on the truck with a signed title!!! I officially dislike you and your build based solely on jealousy! Keep up the sweet build!

Nice rig man! I'm very jealous...

This isn't even close to being fair!!!!!!!

Getting closer to the Dante's Peak truck :) No body lifts...or atleast keep it to under 1". These big floppy C channel frames do not mix well with a long wheel base body and tall body mounts.