Search results

You diagnose the leak as brake fluid. That makes it a "must fix now" item. Chances are, it is the wheel cylinders leaking. Chances are, it is either because they are really old and in need of overhaul or the new ones without cup expanders were installed at some point. In any case, I would - pull...

They look like trailer lights of some sort.

I had the pleasure of stopping by and taking a peek at the truck....she's going to be a beauty! One of the more practical variants of the M35 that is certainly fun to have around for all sorts of projects. Jon does a great job of getting her completed and working properly.

Sorry, no...picked it up at a local truck shop. It has an aluminum base and a clear poly cover to protect the amber lens. Was about $100. Public works trucks and plows use this model around here.

If you are installing two of the original amber beacons with motor and (double) lamps, they do draw considerable power. Many that left them running with the engine off found that out the hard way. An install with a relay would probably be wise; avoids running all that amperage through the...

I mounted mine on the cowl with silicone only. No holes drilled. Holds fine after three years.

Some pictures with measurements would be nice - might help someone else reproduce the same solution!

The engine bay does not appear to have been cleaned and the surfaces of the block that are visible appear dry. There is no indication of oil leaks and there is no noticeable blow-by on idle from the crank case vent (no slobber tube attached). The top of the front axle pumpkin also appears dry...

bought turbo off an auction site from Delawarelister for 300 bucks. Came in unopened OEM box.

Some is just coolant spill from refilling the rad. The longer tracks on the block are oil traces from the leak before I re-torqued the head nuts. I will clean them up, but I wanted to see if there was more coming down in the same areas. There isn't. I broke a wire on the EGT probe somewhere and...

How can this happen? I am unclear on this also. The in-tank pump provides fuel to the auxiliary fuel pump at the injection pump. It is a low pressure affair. Not sure how this would get fuel into the crankcase, unless something else is defective (e.g. a leaking, not bypassed FDC) that would also...

Last year my trusty LDT developed a knock, started to misfire/"pop" and became harder and harder to start. I decided to swap it out for a takeout LDS. Project creep led to a major refresh of the LDS before it went in and also the Waterloo 5th gear OD modification to the Spicer 3053A. If you...

I re-ringed the 3-ring pistons that were in the engine; they checked out ok. Engine was already rebuilt once by Continental.

Update: Pulled valve covers and valve train and re-torqued as per posted sequence with 130 +5 (135) ft.lbs (184 Nm). It needed it! While 2/3 of the nuts were still tight to spec, about 1/3 was about 1/2 to 3/4 turn loose. That is after 3 or 4 heat cycles. I had torqued them correctly upon...

The leak seems to be from the HG behind the exhaust manifold (of course; anywhere else you could actually see it!!). There is a chance it is the valve cover, but I doubt it. Oil pressure on the rebuild is really good, runs at around 90 psi when fully loaded.

Block surface checked for flatness, factory-new heads, new-style headgasket (latest). Non-TD block. Torqued in stages up to 130 ft.lbs. During second hour of operation I wailed on it a bit more. I noticed ok EGT (1100) but the turbo happily boosted to 15 psi and a bit beyond. I eased up and...

Cause and effect....easy to get pushed down the wrong path. It *could* be a temperature thing, but it is more likely a time issue. It has enough fuel to run for a few minutes, then it shuts off. Coincidentally, it also warms up while it runs. I would strongly suspect a supply problem that allows...

Installed rebuilt LDS-465-1A with modified transmission behind it (Waterloo OD). Replaced a hard brake line. Hooked everything up (clutch adjust, throttle adjust etc.) First test drive today! Absolutely awesome! Some minor fixes to do, install fan and brush guard, adjust brakes and start...

Not to add to your woes, but the CTIS has been unreliable, even when the trucks were still on active duty. The original tires are prone to internal breakage from sitting without air often and/or for prolonged periods of time. That makes the original A3 tires a risky proposition with regards to...

As for wheel bearings: If, after a drive of 30 mins or more, they just get warm - i.e. you can leave your hand on the hub for several seconds without fear of getting burned - I would not obsess about it. I would take action if a hub gets too hot to touch for any length of time.