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My only concern would be contamination since you are breathing the air...no effect on heater operation. I have now made some changes to the heater wiring for a "Blower only" mode and can use the system for fresh (=cold) air with the existing duct work. More on this later. Edit: Added image. Oh...

Less cable on the drum = more pulling power. The 5T snatch block lets you pull up to 5T with more cable still on the drum... The 10T snatch is a bit of an overkill for the deuce winch IMHO.

Someone posted this. :-)

Any potential problem with using engine compartment air? I think I would add ducting to get fresh air.

My 8x8 came from factory with "pull type" drains, which still work great (2530-00-045-3539). If you install an alcohol vaporizer (also factory install on this '69 vehicle), some alcohol will collect in the tank(s) and help keep the valves from freezing. Using a Tee to drain more than one tank at...

:beer:

Thanks for posting! My experience was very similar with about 100 ft-lb torque required to turn the ball in the socket. After cooking for 4 hours, like you are doing, the required torque went to about 10 to 20.... When all done, go over the alignment procedure to make sure. The steering will...

You'll need the orange colored "SCAT" silicone type ducting (see image). Fixed settings for high and low. Air delivery: 100 to 130 CFM...

Good to see you getting started on this project, Brad! Here are some images from the work I did. The process involved drilling the end cap before treating it with hot oil for good penetration. The hole was sealed with a screw. On some, I tapped the hole on others self tapping screws were used...

Most old reliable pyros are self powered except for the light, which can be either 12 or 24 volts...

As seen in previous posts... Support for the lights over the cab was made in a muffler shop, cross piece is aluminum angle.

Same question, solid state or mechanical (relays)? I have been able to repair the 25A solid state units in the past and should have a spare if needed....

Aberdeen was good to me a few years back, but don't have any extras...

I use the kind you'll find in original installations, paddle and sealed toggle switches (mates with Packard type connectors).... Edit: Added image of typical DPST (paddle) switch.

Fun stuff Duncan! So the heater paper is dated 1988, is the first heater a 1974 model, same as your truck?

To nitpick a little, according to the warning label posted above, the Army didn't get the 11:1 ratio for reverse since the transfer isn't supposed to be in "LOW" when in reverse. I like to compare features with other vehicles, in particular the m656/xm757 series, which kind of got lost in...

Like the tree saw being part of the "pioneer" tool set...

Remove it and benchtest it with compressed air and an ohm meter. If you can't find one, I have one somewhere in my collection of old parts. Let me/us know how it goes.

First take the heater apart and clean the seal. If it can't be reused, the Stewart Warner unit uses a silicone O-ring that should be an off-the shelf item (McMasters ?). I'm still experimenting with the Benmar seal, which is a high temperature type, possibly fiberglass...

Same switch, different label IIRC.