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This makes me want to install a nice big maxi-fuse on each alternator and eliminate that near thirty year old fusible link system. Glad it saved your rig from catching fire or burning up a harness.

Since the planets have aligned and we have pushed past the fiscal cliff, the 6.2 has been accomplishing lower fuel consumption...

It has been stated, that is not exactly how it works. In 24v configuration, the resistor draws extra amperage in order to drop the system voltage which is pulled from both batteries. In 12v configuration, only the GP's draw amperage from the first battery. The draw on the first battery is...

I don't get a large quantity of cars in my shop, I teach a voc program, but seems like every Chevy thats comes in with a 4.3, 5.0, or 5.7 CPI have these problems. I love the old TBI engines, hate the newer Vortecs for these reasons. I am liking the newer 4.8/5.3/6.0 everyday over the older ones...

Not sure if the older rigs have this problem but had a 1500 pickup in the shop with a broken link which holds the torsion bar crossmember in. A quick googling shows it is a common problem as well. Good luck with your new ride!

Cool find! On the list of things to do I would" -check for a leak on the central port fuel injection spider or just replace for peace of mind -change intake gaskets -clean MAF -replace distributor drive gear -consider changing the timing chain

Better off with a cheapo suitcase generator, you would need an entire roof's worth of panels to power a block heater. Not to mention the sun has to be out which is usually not the case when mine is plugged in. Either that or get a diesel fired coolant heater which will probably set you back...

I am in the process of wiring in a panel in the back of my M1031 which will have breakers for the block heater, pan heater, and battery chargers. I also have a 120v shore power plug shipping which will make for a simple connection with an extension cord. I also have a small suitcase generator...

Don't forget about the voltage differences on the GP's and IP solenoid. I don't know what the HMMWV crank pulley looks like but additional belts are always good for running an additional air compressor or other accessory.

Pull the cable off of the lever on the heater box and flop it back and forth. You should feel a solid thud when you go from one end to the other. That is the blend door bottoming out on max cold and max hot. I would also check the heater hoses going into the heater core to see if they are hot...

Obviously you want the correct VIN on your registration, sticker, and insurance card but...I'm sure no one cares due to the age of the vehicle as long as you do not live in a heavy emissions inspection county and will be looking for a cat on the exhaust.

Here is some good information: http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/pickup/112_0112_military_equipped_vehicles/models.html I really like the fact they option these things with locking diffs, low gears, and big tires. Yet the same truck in the civilian version is pretty weak. I'd really like to...

Just remember that if your solenoid has failed, the bypass will not help you in an emergency. Time to get creative and make sparks...or as Mainers say SPHAKS!

Worse case if that happens again is jumper the lead off the solenoid that supplies power to the GP's directly to the battery. Use jumper cables or something with some beef. Will atleast get you started again so you are trapped somewhere. Good luck!

I do not want to restore mine according to the military use...I just think it would be cool to know what was in there and see photos of it in use. Entertainment purposes only!

I'm not sure why someone would go through all the trouble when you can just plug the thing into a timer and have it warm up an hour or two before you depart. Go outside, unplug, start up, drive off. No fancy remotes to deal with and it protects the engine on cold start instead of letting it warm...

You can buy remote keyfabs which operate a set of relays inside the car. You could simply wire a relay to ground out the GP solenoid and another to activate the dogehead relay. Push one remote button to warm up the GP's manually the. Push another to crank the engine over. Of course a third relay...

Anyone know how many M1031 trucks were made?

Your M1009 probably has poor performance because it has a 3 speed with 3.08 gears. Lower diff gears with a 700r4 would make that run alot better in acceleration and highway driveability. You do run into the point where gearing is no longer going to get you up a hill faster, you just need more...