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Sounds overly complicated. I have probably $75 total in a block and oil pan heater...absolutely no issues with cold starts. Tried and true, easy to install both. Search my threads if you want to know more. As soon as I order a Jatonka grille cover, my rig will be artic proof.

You are apparently missing a key part of this equation!!! $4800 + fees + tax + bragging rights This would have been much better if it was unmolested for that kind of money...not that it wouldn't take much to put it back though.

Optimizer 6.5 looks like one of the best drop in replacements as far as fitment goes but it is electronically controlled. Not sure if you can get just a bare 6.5 Optimizer long block and keep it mechanical (turbo or NA). Last time I looked up the price on that engine, I remember saying to myself...

I would just make all of my aux lighting 24v. Even if you can't find them, get a 12v housing and put 24v bulbs in them...convert the headlamps as well using a Hella relay kit off the 24v bus bar. As far as stereo amps go...I'm sure some Marine or RV application may have something out there but...

Won't it take a while for the IP to run out of fuel by crimping the supply line? I read somewhere on here that pinching the return line will cause a spike in outlet pressure and slow the engine to a hault. Never tried it, unconfirmed by me. Theoretically as long as your shut off solenoid works...

Anyone on the forum recommend a nearby shop with a good reputation? If not, I would probably try to find one Pirate4x4.com Lot's of great 4x4 and fab sho guys are on there.

I don't know how a technician doesn't open the hood and see a pair of batteries and alternators just assuming it is a standard 12v truck. When I work on something untraditional (British or German), I do more homework than wrenching. Ruins a prefectly good rig. Hope you save it!

Today we reached a high of four degrees. I'd rather be in a warmer climate like in the back of your M1010. Sweet ride! I would convert that to an expo rig, sell my house, and live the dream :)

You can go as long as your battery keeps the IP powered up. Just make sure your water pump belt still works. When that goes you will overheat. I would safely assume that grabbing three new drive belts and installing them is time/money well spent that risking anything even if you have to do it...

Yes, much better than the smaller 7.5" 10 bolt. They still have massive limitations in the truck world. There are many people with blown up open diffs, gov locks, destroyed axle shafts, etc. in stock form. They are money pits. I'm just stating if you are going to invest money into an axle, a...

You're kidding right??? 10 bolt as "an axle that would take abuse" :) I wouldn't run a 10-bolt in a riding mower...

For starters...no 10 bolt will last that long. Sorry to hear about your axle failure but I hope you learned your lesson from all of this. One, you should have taken it back to the original shop and had them pull the cover to discover they didn't put oil in it. Some way back in the thread said...

I haven't driven mine recently in weather that is in single digits but I will tell you that my glow controller is not on for that long. Wait light goes out in less than 10 seconds, crank it over, fires on first try, GP's stay on for 3-5 seconds verified with voltmeter and solenoid thud.

Sweet ride...welcome to SS! Post up photos of your rig too! The design isn't a compromise, it could have been solved using 24v glow plugs but that is another conversation. Unless you plan on running your rig with a military convoy and forsee dead batteries in your future, bypass that thing!

I agree, if you properly maintain the engine and use it at regular intervals...probably not an issue. On something with unknown history you could plug that turbo up and burn the bushings. Not exactly the SeaFoam's issue. I ran into this problem all the time with BG transmission flushes. Older...

The HMMWV mount is $700 from what I quickly found on the internet. Way out of price range for just the mount. I do like the folding down mount from DIY4X. I was thinking something like that, of course mine was more traditional with the tire facing out. Almost impossible to mount up in the down...

Gotta love RockAuto! Got the AC Delco for $25. Also bought a wiper motor (A-1 Cardone) for $50 which was 50% cheaper than one from the local parts store.

I have an M1031 on 37's. I'm looking to see what some have done for a spare tire carrier. I haven't measured the frame rails yet but I doubt it will fit in the stock position. A big hinged carrier out back would be sweet. Could incorporate a ladder and Jerry can mount but only one big question...

What kind of price are we talking here? I'm thinking about doing this as most older rigs really do not enjoy running headlight current through the fuse panel or switch anymore. My plan would be to mount up two relays (probably $10 total) near the batteries and use the stock pigtail to switch...

Thanks for the heads up!