Search results

Lift pumps mostly circulate fuel for priming, breaking supply lines will break siphon effect, then air will get to the IP and engine will stop running. IPs get hot, circulating fuel cools them.

Uh, he called me around 2100 yesterday. We talked for ~30 minutes. That would be at least 7 pages of posts here

Talked to Andy last night...he is clear on diagnosis. For the record, hot wiring a CUCV is easy, just give the pink wire on the ip 12 volts, then connect the two larger wires on the starter relay to actuate the starter. With aftermarket relay (aka "Doghead relay mod"), a short length of 10...

The two fat terminals on the relay...one will have 24 v, the other zero until the key is in start, then both will have 24 v referenced to ground. If voltage on fat terms drops to zero with key in start, trace the fat wires, one goes to back battery, the other to starter solenoid on the starter...

Just a old bag of excuses here, I've pulled my spine out of alignment and need to rest, doctor's orders. Called radiculopathy, burning pain down my left elbow. Happy fun meds to arrive tomorrow :(

Ouch. Safety wire here is a must. Fuel inside, engine oil outside.

The lever shaft assembly should drop in and fit flush as long as the pawl is in the proper elevation as the slot on the collar. I can feel the added weight of the collar when actuating the lever with my fingers.

Sounds like the pawl on the lever shaft was not engaged in the slot on the control collar. This prevented free floating of the control collar so the governor could not control the engine, leading to full fuel when the lever moved the collar. I find a small mirror like a dental type is most...

Yes, oil and air from the center bearing section of the turbo if that seal is compromised.

The meter will read the real plus reactive current. Which means if there is a load of 6250 W that is pure resistive, the generator will be fine. But if you have a motor rated at 4000 W with a 0.60 power factor, it would exceed rated limits of the generator (6666 W) as there would be 2666 W of...

6240 watts real plus reactive, this means power factor of 0.80 so if you multiply 6240 by 0.80 you get about 5000 watts. Ok, more like 4992 but significant figures yada yada ymmv eieio ;)

Have you tested the voltage going into the panel meter? Easy to do. First, test all measurement devices. If panel meter is reading correctly, study the wiring diagram as it sounds as if there is a loose connection somewhere.

Have you ever replaced the harmonic damper on the front of the crank? When these age, they lose damping which over stresses the crank. The damping element is rubber which hardens. Used engines are out there.

You can still cook AGMs.

The PDF TMs have this issue. Iirc, that is a fold out in the originals.

Check frame bonding straps, replacing star tooth washers. Aluminum oxide is an insulator plus Al loves to corrode.

Again I am a no-show :( as I am in New England.

If the battery voltmeter is in the yellow, check the fuse above the starter lockout switch. Near the oil filter. This protects the charging system. It will blow if someone tries to hook the batteries up wrong.

Diesels have cooler exhaust temperatures, part of the high compression ratio and the fact heat is work is energy. Greater compression ratio, cooler exhaust. That and the fact diesels usually run far lean.

Actually, the part number in the TM is for the chrome version. Remember, this was a Commercial off the shelf item for all practical intents, GM picked the cheapest parts they could get away with...over the years, chrome is more expensive hence that signal lever was discontinued mostly due to...