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It's listed below the video.

Well it's +3" so it jumps to about 5'9" in the center I would guess. I seem to recall the frame is normally 5'6" I'll climb up in the trailer and measure later tonight.

I just place collars under each of the six legs. You can easily add 3" of headroom. Much more and the cover won't have enough overlap on the bed's side panels, etc. Also any longer and you'd need to make an actual extension for the legs else you won't have enough footing to hold the frame in...

Not shown are the installed springs themselves for the above setup. Just Google "captive spring" expedition suspension, etc.

That is the OEM design for box/chassis flex allowance/limitation on the M1079. I've never seen how the 5-ton attaches, though.

The CTIS has pre-determined "safe speeds" to operate the truck with less-than-normal air pressure. There is a dash indicator that comes on if that speed is exceeded. The CTIS is programmed to push the tire pressure back up automatically if the dash indicator is ignored.

I think that the 55 mph rating is only on the Michelin "may pops" and ZXLs. Pretty sure that the Goodyears are rated well beyond 55mph for highway. Of course you always want to adjust your speed with any load scenario.

It's the exact same mount as the OP pic. The angled cover was only done on M1078 and M1079 A1 trucks I think. They were specifically for the chalks and chains. Mine is stock A1R and I suspect they found the final design more versatile.

Here's another angle on the hanger and divider.

The mount that extends back part way under the lift beam and makes a hanger for the top of the cover is the only real detailed fab. I've even seen a few folks who made these do it a couple other ways. After that, I would drop a "box" or "open box" in there and reclaim as much carry space as...

To date I had this happen once with both my trucks. On the M1078A0 it was a battery that had a bad cell and was under-volt (11.7v). The others were fine. I pulled the bad battery and the other one outboard, and just ran with dual batteries. Just yesterday I resolved the "no start click" on...

iirc there is about 24" to be reclaimed between cab and what would normally be the end of the tire mount (on a M1078/M1079, not sure the total on the 6x6 with the cooler) I've seen that number posted before on a couple of builds. @coachgeo may have that number as well. If no one posts it...

This isn't "homemade". This was in fact OEM from Sealy. I've seen trucks in the field with their chalks, etc secured there.

Btw: The "click" was coming from the small relay just above the upper frame rail. I have to assume that is the "remote starter relay"? There are clearly the two hots (heavy gauge with red covers) and the two black wires (top and bottom). In any event, it was beating on the starter that got...

Yes, I have an A1R with the C7

Did that with a ball peen hammer at the get-go three weeks ago. After chasing every possible relay and ground, I fucked up went with replacing the batteries (well, I re-configured from quad to dual bats). Since they were showing 12.3v on all four, and the dash gauges were reading 11v and 22v...

Ask Sean Filner He's still swearing by coolant. I think I will pass on all solutions until the day comes that I don't need the CTIS system. Too much gunk potential....

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/manual-ctis-control-how-to.161829/ https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/manual-ctis.139096/ https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/manual-ctis-conversion-for-m-1078.152581/

This ^^^^^^

Several threads have discussed balance media. Some using airsoft pellets claiming success (just make certain no oils are within the CTIS system as it will melt the pellets and gum up the entire works). And a few people are running liquid (antifreeze).