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Page 3. Do you know how it goes when you get someone vehicle brought to you and they say it won't work? They say check it out fix anything you see. OK. that opens up a can of worms. I was just working on the steering and I seen many things that need addressed just to be a reliable snow plow...

Page 2. I also used the original 12 point bolt just to keep it accessible and for the next guy that has to work on it. They provided a 3/8 fine thread bolt with a 9/16" 6 point head. I like the smaller 12 point head. Easier to tighten and holds the socket tighter. Look at them nice old parts...

Imagine this. I am now forced to work on CUCV's at work again. That statement was not a complaint. It was statement over the years I was told to stop worrying about the old trucks and focus on the chassis department. I shifted my focus to the new assignment and I still watched from afar and...

When I was servicing the front wheel bearings I took notice to what I think was rear axle hub seals were used in the front wheel bearing seals position. To me these old seals are the ones that go in the rear drum brake hubs and are oil seals. This what the front grease seals should look like...

Imagine this. I am now forced to work on CUCV's at work again. All the mechanics that know old vehicles have retired and I am stuck picking up the past due maintenance on the last 2 remaining CUCV's in the snow plow fleet. This truck drove like the front brakes were on all the time and it had...

Fix the leak in the filter base. If it is the quarter sized pressure switch you replace that switch or eliminate it completely. That is NOT needed. I always put a self taping screw in that hole if it is bad. and fill the hole with JB Weld. It seals the leak and does the job. If you want let the...

Most master cylinders come with a bleeder kit. Fairly simple just make sure to use clean fluid and bleed the entire system as you go. Good Luck.

Duralast Radiator B850 (autozone.com) I bought many of them. They fit and are warranted for life. Good price. Just be very cautious and carefully look for damage before you leave the store. Also use extreme care getting the oil cooler lines removed and started. If you cross thread them you are...

Since the voltmeter only works when the key is on. Could it be grounded thru a relay that provides ground only when the switch is on. I am poor at electrical but I eventually figure it out. But if I recall that hot wire to the voltmeter is always hot. That's why it sparks when you have the...

Get rid of that set of cables. Unless you need it in place. I would remove it from the truck and discard it. Or get 4 nice clamps and make a good heavy set of jumper cables. Good Luck. I knew it was a dead short. But didn't know you still had the power cables flopping around in the bed.

Those things won't work on a CUCV unless you redesign the mount.

First question why did you change the fuel system to begin with? It makes it hard to help from afar when we have no idea what kit of hacked up modifications were made to it. Do the glow plugs cycle? Do you have an air lock in the fuel filter? The old stock way is the easy way. But if you want it...

Yes I think so. I will get you some pictures. Also this should be in the classified.

Also keep in mind the main power cable had a cable clamp holder and a clip on the oil pan that held it away from getting in harms way. I mean at this point in time it could be anything. But I think that is where your problem is. Has the starter been off recently? Is the support bracket in place...

I am thinking the main power wire running to the starter has grounded out and may be worn/burnt or shorted at the starter. Disconnect that cable at the buss bar and see if you problem still exists. I seen some shabby main starter cable attachments many times. That key slot on the main starter...

You are referring to the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster. You can still buy that from LMC. The one with the idoit lights fits the CUCV. Good Luck.

What circuit board are you referring to? Are you talking fuse box or cluster assembly. Unclear what you are referring to. Post some pictures as reference.

That is not a stock injection pump. I would try a torx 25 or 30 tamper resistant. But IMHO you are avoiding the inevitable. And let me warn you. They are 10/24 threaded screws and they are steel. If you strip them or break them off the injection pump may be an unsalvageable core. I had one that...

Hey get an M10 flange nut on that Gen 1 alternator brace. What's a few horse power between friends? At this point a few of the horses have died off and ran away. I once was more powerful now I just idle better. Wide open I leak and burn oil. Take Care and Be Safe.

Send him another core for rebuilding. I never had that issue with Diesel Care in Memphis TN. Good Luck. Report back on your findings.