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Perhaps these diagrams will help (I prepared these for an MVM article, but the way things are going, it may take another year before it gets published).

Man, what a job Chris! All seems so heavy in comparison to my own 5-ton project. Glad the control box worked well, if there is no hood, you may want to cover it when you aren't working on it, it can take occasional hose-downs, but why push it. Let me know if you want the old box reworked as...

I use Gillespie on my bikini tops and it is holding up very well, no leaks, no dew on the inside whatsoever even in the places where the canvas is sagging and collects some water. Thomson's water seal doesn't last very long on wood, must be reapplied every couple of years where the sun bakes it...

Kenny, the way the switch is wired with #11 going to two terminals, you should be able to use either of the other ones (wire #27 or #55), which are hot when the switch is on.

I'm not aware of anything different from the deuce multi procedure...read past posts and install a pyro.

Chris (steelsoldiers) will be testing a "bare bones" version of the control box over the weekend. It was put together by yours truly and the printed circuit board has been eliminated, which simply means that the "protective" features based on the "engine running" input (wire #566) are no...

The more you work on them the easier it gets, goes for generator bracket, belts, fuel and oil filters, brake fluid, injectors, hydraulic head, you name it...

I crimp virtually all my connections plus heat shrink. Soldering old wires can be a pain.

I have seen new cars where the battery must be removed for a headlight bulb change or the VW bug where you are supposed to take the front wheel off first then the light assy....engineering is loaded with compromises. :-)

Congrats! If you need anything translated (from Swedish), let me give it a shot.

Thanks, the images complete the picture. :-)

Thank you Kenny, I'll keep that in mind. Would need a separate power source to run the crane if it were to be used to swap the engines...perhaps an electrically powered hydraulic pump...

Would be nice to have a sound spectrum analyzer so that the exact details of the noise could be displayed on a printout.... You guys really know how to make a man feel guilty about doing nothing. :-)

If you want to stay with air power, try the Sprague Air Push wipers, used in the m656/xm757 8x8 series trucks. With a second air line, they are self-parking. A SPRAGUE GS-1856R AIR WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR! REBUILT!:eBay Motors (item 120467881618 end time Sep-16-09 08:02:10 PDT)

I have been following this with interest, thanks for posting guys! It's very much like laying out printed circuit boards for analog (op-amps) circuitry where ground loops must be avoided. Perhaps a couple of illustrations are in order at this point...

No, it's my own work, I don't even have the correct fuel tanks for this truck. They were both missing and made of aluminum, most go to scrap pretty quick. PS. Don't expect to much use of the coolant heated heater, by the time they start to put out, the engine alone will keep you plenty warm. :-)

If this is the fuel burning heater, remember to install a separate fuel tank (Jerry can) for it, it will not tolerate veggie oil and probably not even biodiesel. Installation below shows a solution where the pickup line can be moved to the Jerry can if the main tank ends up with a mix of fuels...

The military doesn't like surprises, so the spec you see will be worst case or average at best. Compare 20K winch at 9,500 lb, which would be as used most of the time with most layers of cable on the drum, not bare drum...

Wow, that's a job! Will you be using copper tubing for replacement or are you staying with steel? All air lines are copper on my (little) 8x8 and as good as new after 40 years, except for some kinks and dents here and there.

Not a good procedure! You really need to download TM 9-2910-226-34 and study it. The plunger in the bore that you exposed, rides on a cam and moves up and down as the engine turns over. The plunger is lapped to fit in its bore and must not see any dirt or microscopic contaminants, which might...