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The local NAPA makes hoses to order, and they're not cheap, but I don't think even that route would cost as much as $100 to 150 a piece. You may want to try your local friendly hydraulic shop, too. Possibly the least expensive is to measure the stock hoses and order the closest available...

Yep, and when combined with being a dick, the result came out very wrong. My sincerest apologies to everybody that lost sleep over this error of mine.

So far I've only broke one 10-bolt, but wouldn't put any money into one. Except in a front application, which I did using a True-Trac. There's a big difference between the forces applied to the parts when running a locked diff versus a limited slip, even one that really works, like the...

Nope, I'm not. Just went by the numbers in the GM literature, as you posted above, then did the math wrong.

That I don't know, but I think I've read that they did on M1028s. Maybe someone put a 1028 axle in a 1008?

Since the diff in your photos looks like a Trac-Lok case, my guess is that it is.

That's correct. Trailer tires aren't built to handle torque loads, like on a drive axle, among other differences. But I wouldn't be surprised if trailer wheels are built to a higher standard when it comes to loads in general.

Good find, m38inmaine! Now you got me lusting for that kind of wheel, for other projects. Since those wheels have sufficient load rating, if built right (to handle the high lateral loads of a tandem axle trailer) they should hold up.

There must be hundreds to chose from, but Tire Rack (for example) lists backspacing. And you can search using make and model and narrow the results down that way. Unfortunately, most wheels offered these days are pretty darn ugly, I think, but many can be fixed with a simple spray can. I used to...

As long as the backspacing is the same, or only slightly less, most any wheel with the correct bolt pattern should fit. Finding one that is hub centric could be a bit trickier.

Somewhat on subject, I remember reading that the brake system could be damaged if driving without the air pressure built up. Not liking to idle engines, I always drive off right away, even if the SEE has sat long enough to have lost nearly all its pressure. Not that I usually use the brakes for...

Yeah, either that, or not taking everything all seriously all the time.

Yep, my bump stops are not only touching the frame, they're attached to it. Luckily there's space below the bump stops and the plate the U-bolts attach to, so the ride is okay. I knew I had something with space between the bump stop and frame. Different setup than on a K-series, though.

Used engine oil (properly filtered, of course) also works great. To a point - when mixing it up to 40% with diesel it was hard starting and smoked. Noticeably better power (more BTUs) and a much smoother running engine resulted with lower mixtures, and 7% is deemed perfectly safe. About 15% was...

Then I'm screwed. Never had any space between the bump stop and frame, on any of my K-series.

Now I know what I want for Christmas. Well, for the SEE. Two, count'em two, manly sized spin-on filters for the rear hydraulics. Yum!

On a K-20 with the 6.2, yes it was 1,400 lbs. per spring. The K-10 had a 3,600 lb. capacity in the front. Not sure what the military specified, but on a regular K-30 it was 2,250 lbs. per spring. That's three different rates, not counting the K-5, which may differ from the pickups. And again...

Man, are you going to make me dig up the correct info for the K-series springs? I don't really care what the aftermarket offers these days, as I thought we were discussing stock suspensions here. And no, it's definitely not uncommon for previous owners to have changed springs, which is why I...

Darn, that would mean that someone stole the third leafs off of my M1009s, and the 3/4-ton Suburban. Bought a '91 K-30 new, so thankfully that one still had its third leaf. But then there's an '85 3/4-ton Suburban, a project vehicle which I picked up new, and it was missing its third leaf, too.

WHAT?!? It's time you check the body builders books of the era, look up old road tests...or believe us.