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Test the switch. With the PTO knob pushed in, the switch should be open. It should close when the knob is fully pulled. Disconnect the switch before checking to rule out a short to ground somewhere else.

I doubt the transformer has an issue. It is just windings in an iron field. The primary side windings are the output of the generator, when the load increases, the magnetic field increases which increases the voltage and current on the secondary. This increase helps to stabilize the output...

3M ohms in one way and 12M ohms in the other is a blown diode.

Easier in the 1008 because it has fewer windows and much less volume. Even with only two seats, cooling the rear of the 1009 is difficult in warmer locations. There is enough room between the front seats for center console second evaporator. Yes, twin evaporators off one compressor. The...

Drain the tank yearly, even if kept full. I just did mine, had about 1/4 cup of slime and water in it. All cleaned and fresh fuel now.

Check voltage at terminal board A1, connection 8 with the main switch in the run position, engine off. It sounds like it is getting 24 volts there in the run position, it should only be there when the engine is cranking. This flashes the field and engages the starter, it is fed by terminal...

White smoke on cranking? If not, you have no fuel.

19-1/2 is pretty close to 20 which is what is painted on the door. Coincidence?

Pulling the glow plugs also increases cranking speed which speeds priming.

What I would do. But I know how to fix the brakes, cooling and charging system to make a ferry trip. Lights. Always check the lights. This is the season for self-recovery. June through August is miserable. 115 F though Kansas would have killed me, we towed the M1031.

The fuel tanks can be an issue, DRMO has them empty and they suck humidity, leading to rusting. Sometimes BAD rusting. This will lead to frequent filter changing and lots of headache if not cleaned out FULLY. First, if you can get them hot tanked, DO SO. The solder joints may fail, no...

You can see how long we have been here and how many posts. As far as fuel, I have never ran out. I carry 5 gallons extra AND use that little receipt from each fueling to track miles covered. Write the odometer reading on the last receipt, clip it with a clothespin, gem clip or chip clip...

Great job on the splicing. 5 hours a side is good progress.

Yes, simple combination wrenches are all you need...well, a brass drift and hammer will help. Throw in a pry bar for good measure. A 1" ratcheting tie down is a better means to secure the drive shaft. Duct tape the universal joint's caps in place

Hopefully running proper diesel once you get it all together. :deadhorse: 416 dollars will buy 111 gallons in my area. Not saying alternative fuels caused your problems but it didn't help.

Back to the camera for the transmission switch :deadhorse: Yes, Steve, we WILL get your generator working. ETA PICTURES!!! First is in park, second in drive and third in 1st or low.

Yes, the transfer case was in 2H for the picture. The switch is a Honeywell BZ2RW8299A2.

The alternator MAY be hooked up incorrectly. Double check the sense wire, it too may be bad. I have assumed this is for the right side alternator, the one charging the back battery. The 8 AWG wire going to the back battery is solid red, the 8 AWG wire going to the front battery (isolated...

The lever arm on that switch is seriously bent out of shape. As we would call it, ATFU. You might be able to fix it but being spring steel, it looks intentional. I dread what you are going through will be a long road to functionality. Keep up the effort, we will help you. I can go take...

Yes, that tool for pulling Saginaw power steering pump pulleys works great, also at installing them. Except for certain GM front wheel drive vehicles, you have to get a shorter bolt to pull the pulley back on. Or shift the engine-transaxle to get space. But we don't care about front drive GMs...