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Thanks Skinny! If I could source the core...I know I could do it myself. Yes, I am the king of 1/4" drive tools. But down here, the arctic heater core isn't necessary. Comfortable, yes. I did note the multiple choices of heater cores, some are for vehicles with AC, others not. Didn't see...

37 inch tires demand 4.56. I wouldn't recommend speeds over 60 regardless if you have an overdrive, you have a short wheelbase vehicle with solid axles and leaf springs. Nothing you can do to make it handle safely on the highway at higher speeds. You have too much unsprung mass and higher...

So where is the typical failure point? Header tank or core? Corrosion or pressure failure? I would feel leery with fixing corrosion damage.

The original heater cores are a bit different than what civy parts catalogs list. This is another part that differs. I have one that I am getting ready to fix and stumbled on this thread.

I've been running mine at 55+ MPH and nary a rear main leak. It all depends on the condition of the engine and most importantly, the CDR valve condition. High RPM is really bad with an aged harmonic damper since it is the cause of crankshaft failure. It isn't too terribly involved to...

You need the master cylinder and booster to go along with the axles. Larger brakes need more fluid volume. More volume pumped needs greater boosting effort. The braking force is proportional to system pressure, not pumped volume.

These are all 20+ year old units. The rubber isolators age differently because rubber is a highly variable compound. Also, different exposure conditions could harden some faster. Yes, the 002s vibrate more because they have half the cylinders of the 003s. This is a BIG parallel twin engine.

Oh great, another upgrade I didn't know the M1031 needed. Headlights are nice and bright still, will do the relay mod for peace of mind.

Yes, that diode is FRIED. It is a snubber, meant to prevent arcing when the relay breaks contact since this relay is driving a coil which can store energy, releasing it when the circuit breaks. After looking over it, any 1 amp power diode will work although I would start at 100 volt so any...

Dropping the tank isn't too hard on 1008s. Absolutely dreadful on 1010s and 1031s because the hoses on top of the tank are hard to get to. I have no experience on 1009s but have dropped similar tanks on cars. The common element in all is get as much of the fuel out as possible. And install...

Exactly HOW did you bypass it? Length of hose? If so, it is possible this is bypassing the thermostat. Put a clamp on that hose and see if that helps. From the symptoms, the heat is leaving via the radiator as it should. It is the thermostat which isn't functioning correctly. Many...

The wheel cylinders in the federal supply system have inferior springs which lack end expanders. The rebuild kits from most have either coned end springs or crimped on expanders. These are superior because they force the rubber cups outward, assuring good seal. This prevents seepage of brake...

Sure, they will spin the engine but they lack reserve capacity to heat the glow plugs in cold weather. IIRC, they are something like 45 amp-hour rated where Group 31s are 85 amp hour and 6TLs are 100. Better have a gear reduction starter if you want to run Red Tops.

No, there is no fuel tank drain plug. Nor are there air vents for the cooling system. The stock fuel filter has both drain and vent. But it would be best to drop the tank to clean out completely.

The function of the resistor is more complex than just voltage division. The glow plugs have resistance which has a positive temperature coefficient, the resistor has a neutral. With the control card, the system offers faster pre-glow warmup in very cold conditions. The resistor is around...

I use Delvac 1300. Pretty slick jug with the pour spout. Good history with it.

Is is API C rated? It might work. Diesel engine rated oils are all API C for compression ignition. Gasoline engine rated API oils are rated S for spark ignition. Most API C oils are dual rated for limited S service. Not so with API S rated oils.

If the vacuum regulator on the injection pump has failed, you will get sluggish shifting regardless of throttle. To diagnose, get a vacuum gauge, vacuum line and a T fitting. Install the vacuum gauge on the top line off the vacuum regulator on the injection pump. Test drive, vacuum should...

A 1.9 VW TDI would be more than adequate for a CJ5 if given proper injector and injection pump size. Yes, they do make a mechanical type. An electronic might be a bit more but it could work better. Malone makes a tune that doesn't require the instrument panel for immobilizer synch with the...

I don't see why the OP is adverse to using a mechanical fuel pump with return line. Even Parflex would be fine here. Probably polypropylene or polyethylene if temperatures are appropriate. A singe Facet pump would work fine given the NPSH afforded by gravity.