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The 24 VDC maintainer is a good one, designed for AGM batteries. I agree and will start using a separate maintainer for each battery.

Big surprise yesterday. I tried to start my MEP003A generator yesterday as part of my monthly test. No Go. I ran the generator last month and the starter turned the engine very fast. I keep a 24 VDC maintenance battery charger hooked up 100% of the time, except when the generator is running...

I used a 4000 psi pressure washer with a very small orifice nozzle on my wheels, followed by a brillo pad and sandpaper, prior to painting.

I replaced all of the brass nuts when I did my wheels / tires. I also took a socket and ground the edges so that they got a good grip on the nut. There is almost no way to torque those brass nuts to 45-60 ft-lb without using a modified socket. Once the socket slips off the nut, the nut is toast.

It's good that you have an original sample because you should be able to get a new cable made based on the sample. Try these guys, but there are a lot of companies that make custom cables. Custom Cables - Motion Pro

According to the Lube Order, OE/HDO-10 which is 10 wt motor oil. I've attached LO 5-2420-224-12. I'm using 10 wt motor oil in mine and that was what was in it when received.

I use a magnetic tag holder.

I don't think I was clear. I wasn't saying that the petcock was the issue. What I'm saying is that the filter doesn't fill up with fuel because air is trapped in the filter. Opening the petcock while cranking lets the air be purged from the system.

Have you confirmed that a choke cable for a KLR650 won't work? I have no idea, but you might want to check. HDT tried to use as many standard KLR650 components as they could.

Try opening the drain petcock on the bottom of the fuel filter. Normally, when open, you will find the passage will be plugged solid with dirt, so take a small piece of wire (welding rod works great) and rod out the open petcock. Then, leaving it open, crank the engine until you see a solid...

Don't you need a bigger trailer?

Unfortunately I won't be able to attend the Rally this year. I've already registered and paid to attend my U.S. Army unit reunion in Washington, DC. during the same time. I'll really miss it as I have attended all of the rallies at Durhamtown in the past except the first one.

In my opinion here isn't any really good reason to use real CARC and it is very expensive if purchased new. You can purchase it new from Sherwin Williams industrial coatings. Your local Sherwin Williams won't have it. Gillespie paint from Rapco and others is an almost perfect match for the CARC.

I always take a round wire brush in a drill and clean up around the zerk before trying to remove it to get rid of rust, corrosion and especially CARC. I then soak them in penetrating oil for an hour or so. They usually come out. without difficulty. If one does snap off, I also use an Easy...

I torque mine to between 45 and 60 ft-lbs one time. I don't repeat. I've never had one leak after doing it only once. O-rings get blamed for leaks all the time when the real culprit is almost always valve stem grommets.

The 21 gallon tank has a filter P/N HC2124FUN8H, NSN 4330-01-224-5508 The 11 gallon tank has a strainer P/N SS100-8N, NSN 4730-01-097-8684

Your link is dead.

You say that the tool switch is properly wired. Have you checked to make certain that the tool switch is functional? If the tool switch is functional the next thing to check is whether the hydraulic tool solenoid is hooked up properly and is functional. Do you have copies of the electrical...

Why not go ahead and weld up the rusted through spots while you have it off?

The air cooled MEPs are simpler and I have found my MEP003A very dependable after many years and frequent use.