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On the beadlocked wheels we run on rock crawlers and desert race trucks, that's an easy way to plug/patch/sew-up a tire. Was just thinking that it might also be convenient on larger trucks with bigger/heavier tires.

OK. So, if that plate is bolted to the outside face of the ring where the two wheel halves are bolted together (is that right?), then you can't repair a tire without first removing the wheel, right?

I'm a little bit confused. You cut out the original center-sections, right? As I understand it, that 6-lug pattern won't quite fit inside the 10-lug pattern. So are those new centers going to be welded into place or just bolted?

Keep us posted!

Has anyone made any more progress with regard to adapting these 10-lug wheels to the 2.5-ton trucks? As in hub adapters or new hubs?

Cool deal. I thought really hard about building an M109 trailer, but in the end I decided to put a 14ft uhaul box on top of an M353 trailer instead. Make a lot lighter combo and I've got more room inside without all that insulation. My M109 is my motorhome, and my trailer is just the toy hauler...

A computer isn't necessarily needed. You could skin that cat several different ways.

With two rear axles, I think you'd be better off having both of them steer (different radiuseseseses) and you should take a look at how the Deuces' rear suspension works - airbags would be very difficult to fit and lifting one axle is going to be a problem, unless you re-engineer the rear...

Thanks. That deal with the hubsteps just fell-through, and I'm in the middle of a big move (into my M109 motorhome) right now, but I'm planning on making/selling a small batch of them myself as soon as I get through this ****storm. Too much going on. Avenge makes 12 & 24V alternator brackets...

Yeah, I've thought about using a Saginaw box. I was trying to figure out whether it might be possible to convert to cross-over steering linkage (drag-link from pitman arm to pass side knuckle) to reduce the bumpsteer. If you install it with ram-assist, then the box isn't really doing any work...

Yes, that's exactly right. The AC unit is going to be ducted forward into the cab. We're also doing some really cool stuff with fresh-air and recirculating air filters/pressurizers.

There was a good thread on race-dezert.com about fasteners recently, and Cat hardware was highly recommended.

Uhm, PSC isn't going to design anything for you beyond the hydraulics. A person could put a lot of thought into the steering geometry and installation. The 'over-thought' setup isn't usually the one that's 'hacked together'. Way more often, it's the guy that just bought some **** and bolted it on...

Lots of people have built mechanical lock-outs for rear-steer. That's no big deal.

What ties?

If they don't rub up front...

Yeah, I'm planning on going full-hydro on the front of mah deuce. They make good stuff. SEarch pirate4x4.com for more info on hydro steering than you'll want to read.

Just meaning that relatively speaking, it doesn't sound like it would be too difficult. The framerails are straight (from front-to-back when looking from the top-down) and the axles are pretty much interchangeable. So you just need to check wheel/tire clearance through the whole range of...

Don't see any reason why not. Sounds like that would be almost a bolt-in.

Here are a couple of pictures that show how/where I mounted the RedDot R-5045 AC/heater that I am using in my M109 motorhome conversion project. I'm using this condenser, and I haven't even thought about what to do for a compressor yet. I've been talking to the people at RedDot and Sy-Klone...