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In the classifieds!!

Both! The M66 ring is HEAVY! The M49, not so much. The .50 mounted up there adds another 90 then the cans, trolley and cradle add another 90 or so. I'm curious to see what happens when a .50 is fired from way up there!

Sorry to hear ya can't make it :sad: . I'll see if I can fill in as the weenieator this trip!

Man Gerald, that is a sweet looking ride. I always enjoy seeing your projects start and the end result. Beautiful, just plain beautiful.

:ditto: on Antelope Valley. They are not cheap, but you will have the parts the next day if you are in Ca. Filters and such can be had at NAPA, but most of the ones I have visited have the filters but no can gaskets. The stuff from AVTE will have the correct gaskets in with the filters. Nice...

ABSOLUTLY clean and dry, no nothing on them. It's a PITA to do by yourself but it can be done. I try to get Jake to help. When you're done with them, come do mine...just 1 :twisted:

Yes. There is one that comes to the SCMVCC meets once in a while. If Ca does it, i don't see why other states won't.

Kinda tough to tell. Those aren't too thick. Clean it off, take a scribe and poke around a bit toward the outside of the casting. If the pointy thing doesn't go through, i'd say run it.

Go to your local hardware store and buy a little propane torch. Heat does wonders on issues between different metals. In the meantime soak it with rust getter. Been there, done that. I do this kinda stuff for a living...truuuusst me :wink: Take a breather and leave the project sit for a bit. You...

Got a propane torch? Heat the manifold slightly.

Forgot to say, when you get the manifold off, give the stuck bolt a rap or two with a hammer, it helps loosen the stuck part.

Once you get the manifold off it will probably come out easily. The reaction of aluminum and the bolt might be what did it in. Soak it good with a good rust penetrant and work the manifold off...don't pry on the gasket surface, you'll have a leak when you go together. As stated above, the...

If a torque rod is worn bad enough to dive you a driveability issue, it will be out of it's socket and hitting the ground. When they fail, the inside rips out of the rubber. There is a check for them, use a pry bar and give them a pry towards the inside of the truck. Cracking is normal, if they...

Is there alot of freeplay in the pedal?

Nope, pic didn't attach!:?

A really low or really high gear will work best. I'd do low side 1st. Again, just make sure nothing it in front of you and there is a clear path to drive it in. Sometimes driving will free it up if the thing doesn't un stick during cranking. Wonder why it stuck? The truck isn't a "Katrina"...

Put it in gear, leave the brakes set, push the clutch in and start it. Just make sure there isn't anybody/thing in front of you at the time. It will come loose. Kinda like a stuck brake drum.

I'm in! I'll be going out Friday AM. Still don't know about Jake.

I have this in my puter WAITING to put it in the TM setion....W A I T I N G!!!! When is this gonna be fixed?

OLD diesel...non low sulfer... was 7.2 per gallon, I know this from all the dyno testing i've done. The new stuff is lighter, I IRC, I read that it is at just under 7 per gal, 6.925 or something like that. Military vehicle content...I burn diesel in the deuce!