Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I give Thrush welded mufflers the thumbs up. Only slightly louder than stock. Nice rumble with heavy throttle. No drone. Appreciably more power to the wheels. Obviously uncorked the exhaust. Can't speak to longevity yet. My butt dyno is impressed and my neighbors won't complain anymore than usual.
The OE lug holes were wallered out enough that the wheel was twisting on the hub. I'm just glad it made a bunch of noise instead of quietly snapping the new studs off one by one. Got a rally sport on there with a brand new tire for now. It'll be the spare later. I'm giving the replacement...
I don't know anything about blue head gaskets. There is another part number for this truck from FEL-PRO that's a hundredth over-thickness for if you've had your heads milled. That P/N is FEL-PRO 9128PT
That whole ordeal turned out to be not much of a problem at all. I've always dreaded working on drum brakes because they're basically Rube Goldberg machines that account for half the springs in a vehicle and like to throw pieces across the yard during assembly, never to be seen again. All the...
Great news! Today I learned why I couldn't find anything wrong with the front end when the back wheel fell off! I always heard stories about wheels falling off, but I had never seen it happen in my life until today. Somebody must've loosened the lugs for me when I wasn't looking. On the bright...
Can stick a bore scope in the plug holes to see if you've got a steam cleaned piston before taking it apart. Fluorescent penetrant dye could be helpful.
The easiest thing to do would be to remove the intake manifold. I mean I'm sure you could do some endoscopic surgery on your fuel line, but if you managed to succeed, it would probably take ten times as long. Most likely you'd get it apart and not be able to get it back together without removing...
I suspected the u-bolts at first. I reused the originals and have checked the torque on them several times and they haven't loosened up. Maybe I'll go to replace them now and find the center pin broken off. I understand that can happen. The hubs are unlocked, so I didn't expect the outer...
Haven't worked on the truck much lately. Just driving. Developed a front end clunk when I shift into reverse that rapidly got worse and now it's clunking when I barely touch the brakes, so shifting load in either direction is causing it. It's also developing a slight front end creak/groan under...
Got a tub of spare Rotella stashed away that'll do it. In the meantime, share a touch of Jimmi with me. Helps me worry less about whatever I've probably screwed up.
Ordered some Dash Designs seat covers and after installing them, my advice is don't buy them. They may be made to order, but their installation instructions are based upon some fundamental misunderstandings of how the OE seats are built, and they cannot be installed properly without cutting...
For what they charge for little chunks of plastic, you'd think they could afford somebody to count the pieces in the box before they ship. Is 3.2126 for shackle to spring or shackle to frame?
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!