Search results

Much appreciated, folks. I did have to apply about 40 LBS of twisting torque to the plate to dislodge it from the engine, but it retained its flatness. The pushrod fell out in my hand. I polished both to a mirror sheen before reassembly with Permatex aircraft sealant. I retained the pushrod's...

I've got 3.2105R for Energy Suspension front. R is red. G is black. I wanted the visual indicator of what I had and hadn't done for later reference, hence the red. Somewhere I read the M1009 was all K30 underneath. I needed a grinder and a lathe to install the K30 shocks I had ordered, so I get...

I was reading other forums and saw that in gassers, the rod can get gummed up with carbon, so I suspected that may be the case, but per cucvrus, I can remove the plate over it after which it should be easily removeable and I will know for certain. It will be funny if you are correct and I just...

I drove this truck 600 miles before I noticed the pump was leaking, so as you can imagine, it is a mess. I did see the fasteners, but I thought the plate was part of the block casting due to all the grime. I will remove it tomorrow and see what I can see. The fact that it is removable is great...

Replacing lift pump. Stopped before removing the rear fastener because the pushrod was sprung against the diaphragm in the old pump and I didn't want the pressure to damage the threads. Rotated the crank pulley one half revolution. Removed pump. Pushrod is now seized against the engine block...

The conventional wisdom that the 6.2 destroys 700s and people swapped them for 400s because they could take the low RPM beating, but that conventional wisdom is decades old and based on early OEM transmissions while technology improved both from the factory and in rebuilt units over the years...

Are you running the OEM TH400? How's freeway driving with the 4:10s?

Are you still planning on doing the exocage?

You ever notice Jeeps are the only thing that has ever existed that use every single size fastener in existence in SAE and metric on one vehicle?

Back when I was pro, the last two tools I didn't have were the Lisle Triton broken spark plug extractor set and an automatic bearing packer. I kinda like hand packing tapered rollers, honestly.

That's an impressive build you've done. I'm thinking the most painless thing you could do about the rear locker is to just get another axle. There's a 14 bolt with disks locally on Craigslist for $300 here. They're not hard to find.

Phillips #2s will destroy the brass screws in Mikuni carburetors and leave you struggling with needle nose vice grips. Best practice is to tap the JIS against them with a hammer a few times before applying a ton of pressure while turning the screwdriver with a wrench. Once that butter-grade...

I once found a shop catalogue from the 1930s. Fractions of a dollar were pretty meaningful in the scope of pricing back then. It'd be pretty nice to get a set of leaf springs for a buck thirty.

You got 37s on a 1009 with nothing but zero rates? I want to run 24 bolts on one tons, but I wrote it off because I don’t want to do a big lift.

How much lift are you running on 40s? Did you have to do some cutting?

Get under there with a micrometer and get the diameter in millimeters. I bet you can order a fork gaiter for a motorcycle that'll be pretty close to the correct diameter. Just keep an eye on it, 'cause they don't make 'em like they used to.

Steering wheel chain? I didn't know that was a thing they issued. I had to make my own.

Cheap and easy? Try and feed your injection pump from a fuel can on the roof. If that doesn't help, then your IP may be shot. If it does help, then any possible solutions are going to be a lot cheaper.

Found while dismantling the back of my 09 for corrosion inspection.

Are the doors pretty heavy? Considering doing the pins in my driver door after seeing how easily the passenger door closes.