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Solenoid might be stuck. Short circuit in solenoid wire. PCB

I appreciate your input but after looking at the inflated prices for reputable rebuilt, for a few dollars more I can get a new unit.

Is the TPS clocked properly? If out of position it can do this. Also, check the basics… fluid level and filter. Also make sure brake pedal switch is not screwing things up.

IP is expensive. New engine is expensiver. I would purchase a new and unrebuilt IP.

They are expensive BUT i will rebuild and make fitment rings that I will tack weld in place to keep these as an emergency set for off the grid adventures.

And because of the original owner being a cheap moron… $1500 bucks later, parts are on their way! FFS! (I will keep these axles as trail ready emergency units. I’ll machine rings to make them fit properly then tack them into place with the flux core.)

I developed a progressive wobble that became a rhythmic bumping that became a serious loud and uncomfortable thumping. Afterwards I noticed a leaking inner boot. The problem seems to be wrong slotted rotor with too large inner diameter.

I’m purchasing new 1/2 shafts and rotors.

RWH is awesome. I don’t live my life on the forum and I texted him. I needed parts, so that’s why he didn’t post to forum. Not anyone’s fault. Bottom line, the 10” rotor should fit tight. It is loose. It is wrong. Axle is correct BUT rotor is wrong and went out of balance as it is not tight

The rotors are plain wrong. RWH was kind enough to go over the images and he has the parts in stock I require. He helps me a lot and is always willing to help so I return the favor through purchasing parts from him.

Not sure I have the correct axles OR rotors. I’m so pissed. Differential UCP is out. Good riddance!

Take pictures and return or exchange for new ones.

Someone just posted an amazing description of opening stock HMMWV shocks to make them more ride friendly. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/12k-shock-mod-softer-ride.221284/

I gently disagree. There a subtle differences. Biggest issue is compression and head to short block gaskets. Not saying you’re wrong BUT I prefer a Diesel shoppe.

Contact Chris at “Twisted Steel Performance” https://www.facebook.com/TwistedSteelPerformance

Weld a 3/4” arm to the nut. It will block the it from spinning. A dab of silicone or JB Weld, and it will stay in place for reuse. [Edit - if you don’t have a welder, cut and tap a thin piece of flat stock that is 3/4” long. Then JB Weld or silicone in place.]

The best thing to do when you change tire rod ends is remove the unit entirely from the vehicle and then count the number of threads. Then try to re-create the number of threads and the measured distance from the rod to the threaded pipe. You can also use the three blocks of wood method. You...

Alternatively, get a circular wood hole/dowel maker and drill out the area behind the bolt/rivnut and push through. Simple and fast and clean. Cover with duct tape and paint drab green.

Did you properly clock the timing circle from the IP and ensure it is all the way down on the timing gear? Did you get dirt that is blocking the IP from fuel delivery?

Hey Mogman: Sock was mentioned in Post #2. 😁 [EDIT - Just to be clear, I’m teasing Mogman. I’m not trying to insult the OP.]